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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Josh Barrie

The Black Eel: new bar and community space to open in historic pie and mash shop

Eel-y good: the bar and community space will feature food from Riley’s - (Anne Berentsen)

One of London’s oldest pie and mash shops is to be transformed into a new bar and social space this October.

F. Cooke on Kingsland Road in Dalston closed in 2019 and until now has been used a pop-up space. Most recently it was the games bar Draughts.

The venue will now relaunch as the Black Eel, a new project from Exale Brewing, which is behind a number of drinks establishments in London.

The Grade II-listed premises opened in 1862, serving traditional pie and mash, jellied eels and mince and kidney pies. The original features will remain, including the tiled shopfront, arched windows and the doorway mosaic bearing the “Cooke” family name.

Now, Exale said it will “breathe new life into the space,” turning it into a place where locals can eat, drink, and connect in a “nod to the traditions that made the site iconic”.

Upcoming is a main bar — from which pie and mash was once served — alongside a karaoke room, darts board, a shuffleboard space and lounges across a 250-cover interior. Outside will be a 150-seat beer garden and pétanque court.

As for the food, the kitchen is to be run by Riley’s, a new project from chef Billy Fisher, who has worked at the likes of Lagom and the Hawke pub near Victoria Park.

As well as standard dishes such as fried chicken, a cheeseburger and a fish bap, the menu will include steamed mussels with red onion, marinated mushrooms with garlic, parsley and lemon, and pork ribs with pickles and hot honey. Sundays will bring roast dinners for tables to share.

An announcement said drinks will include Exale Brewing’s beers, from hazy IPAs to fruited sours, alongside craft beers, cocktails, and natural wines.

The Black Eel is the fourth venue from the group, which runs the Exale Tap, Three Colts Tavern, and William The Fourth Leyton.

“It will celebrate the site’s heritage by breathing life back into the space,” said the team.

“Designed to foster Dalston’s creative, social energy, the pub will be more than a watering-hole — its clever design, creative food and drink offering and community-led spirit promise a new-age social hub, aimed for people who want ‘more from their local’. More choice, more atmosphere, more ways to enjoy.”

The Black Eel will open in early October at 41 Kingsland High Street, E8 2JS, theblackeel.uk

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