London is famously bad in a heatwave — the tubes are stifling, the parks are packed and the lidos are harder to get a ticket for than Glastonbury. So unless you’ve got a members’ club pass that’s your ticket to a rooftop pool for the day, or are are willing to blag your way in, there’s only one thing for it: head for the coast.
Luckily we’re spoilt for choice with picturesque stretches of seaside just a couple of hours’ drive — or an even speedier train ride away — from the capital. East Sussex and Kent hotspots such as Deal and St Leonards-on-Sea punch well above their weight for restaurants, pubs and chic places to stay. The seafood is just-caught, the ice cream is clotted and the locals are as creative as they come.
So if you plan to be a DFL (Down from London, as the south coast locals will call you) this summer, then here’s our pick of the best beach breaks within easy reach of the capital.
Deal, Kent
Arguably the boujiest seaside town within a few hours of the capital, Deal boasts an award-winning high street, glorious pub gardens on the seafront where you can watch the sun sink below the waves, and plenty of restaurants to lure you away from London. Its long stretch of pebbly beach is pristine and it has a pretty Art Deco pier entrance flanked by an impressive Jon Buck sculpture, named Embracing The Sea.
The Rose (therosedeal.com) is now a stalwart of Deal’s famous food scene. The chic BnB, restaurant and bar offers a modern British lunch and dinner menu which you can enjoy in the cheerful garden, which boasts impressive roses to match the name. The owners also run The Blue Pelican and The Pelican Rooms, along the seafront. The former is a four-day-a-week eatery with tranquil blue interiors and a mood inspired by Japanese Izakayas; while the latter runs yoga class and offers spoiling spa treatments. Then there’s The Zetland Arms a 10-minute drive down the coast, where the fish is super fresh, the beer selection is top tier and there are views over the White Cliffs of Dover.
Though the hostpot you’re likely to see all over your Instagram this summer is slightly inland in Betteshanger. Updown Farmhouse is a gorgeously restored 17th century, grade-two listed home turned restaurant with rooms, and is the perfect bolthole to spend a night or two in serene surrounds (rooms from £190 with a shuttle car service included if desired, updownfarmhouse.com).
Two cottages were converted late last year to add private accommodation to the mix, while the rest of the eclectic rooms which are hung with colourful Studio Lenca artworks, are in the main house. The Michelin guide restaurant is run by Oli Brown of Duck Duck Goose fame and his partner Ruth Leigh, offering seasonal plates spanning buttery veggies, perfectly cooked steak and fries and indulgent puddings.
Its gloriously wild country-style gardens are a major part of the draw in the warmer months. Forget all your worries as you kick back on plump white outdoor sofa with a book from the hotel’s welcoming library.
Best stations to travel from: Stratford International or London St Pancras International.
Whistable, Kent
With pastel beach huts, fresh-as-they-come oysters and buzzing pubs, Whitstable has everything you’d want from a seaside day trip, plus enough accommodation options to make it ideal weekend territory, too.
The Old Neptune is the place to know for drinks, right on the beach (thepubonthebeach.co.uk). And that oyster cafe you’ve seen all over Instagram? That’s Wheelers Oyster Bar, and the aptly named Whitstable Oyster Company (whitstableoystercompany.com) doesn’t disappoint.
For something really special, book ahead for a table at The Sportsman (thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk) in Seasalter, a few miles out of town which serves dishes such as sole grilled in seaweed butter and mussel and bacon chowder.
If you can get a booking, this Victorian cottage on Airbnb is one of the most authentic and charming places to stay, plus its right on the beach so you can nip out for sundowners. Set over two floors with nautical inspired wood panelled walls, cosy, sink-in sofas and seafaring-themed antiques, it’s the dream beachy crash pad, and sleeps up to six (one room is a mezzanine).
Best stations to travel from: London Victoria or London St Pancras International.
St Leonards-on-Sea, East Sussex
It might fly under the radar as a beach break these days, but this East Sussex town was Queen Victoria’s favourite seaside destination. It offers Regency and Art Deco terraces and squares, as well as multicultural, multifaceted restaurants and an arts and music scene which draws world-class DJs. It even has its own Banksy at the local Tesco.
Have pre-dinner drinks at the Goat Ledge (goatledge.com) — a fun-filled promenade bar — before heading for dinner at Bayte (bayte.co.uk) on the King’s Road. Co-owned by the daughter of the Petersham Nurseries founders, the interiors follow suit from the mothership, blending industrial with vintage. while the fare is modern British with a touch of Italian.
If you want to stay over so you can be first in line for the Sunday food market on Heist Street then check into The Knowle (theknowleatstleonards.co.uk). It’s a handsome hunk of Arts and Craft-era B&B set high on a hill a swift 15-minute walk from the station. Aside from the squawk of seagulls, it’s incredibly peaceful. by Jo Fernandez
Best stations to travel from: London Charring Cross.
Read our full guide to St Leonards-on-Sea
Folkestone, Kent
Folkestone packs serious arts, culture and foodie kudos into a modest footprint. It was the height of cosmopolitan glamour in the early 20th century drawing the glitterati on their way to France, and it’s been undergoing a renaissance this past decade. The Creative Quarter is full of artists’ studios, independent shops and quirky bars, plus new luxury accommodation and Tattinger picking it as the spot for France’s first UK wine estate have confirmed its cool-factor.
Yoke is the best spot for brunch and coffee and to sample the catch of the day head to Rocksalt (rocksaltfolkestone.co.uk). It may have lost its Michelin star but the seafood is still sublime. The locals rate seaside shack Chummy’s (chummys.co.uk) for super fresh prawns, oysters and crab sandwiches.
For sleepovers, The London & Paris (landb-restaurants.co.uk) now has a few rooms above it, plus The Pig in the nearby village of Bridge is a great base to explore this part of Kent. The impressive brick building dates back to 1638, which means it’s full of impressive fireplaces, secret passageways and wood-panelled loveliness. by Kate Wills
Best stations to travel from: St Pancras.
Read our full guide to Folkestone
Brighton, East Sussex
Brighton’s beach has been a hotspot for day trippers ever since the Victorian era. And while the pebbles can be painful underfoot, there’s nothing quite like pulling out a picnic blanket and soaking in the British sun after a dip in the Channel. The beach itself stretches down the coast all the way to Hove, fringed by the brightly coloured beach huts for which the area is famous, as well as an ever-expanding list of restaurants, bars and tiny art galleries. And let’s not forget the pier: a must-visit, if just to soak in the atmosphere.
This city has also made a name for itself for its foodie credentials. Head to Burnt Orange (burnt-orange.co.uk) in the Lanes for some truly excellent cocktails and small plates – many of which change with the seasons for the freshest flavours. For those seeking something a bit more substantial (or indeed, the Sunday roast of dreams), Embers (embersbrighton.co.uk) is the place to be. Located down a tiny side street, this wood-fire cuisine restaurant serves some of the most succulent meats you will ever taste, alongside good wine and a rather excellent Burnt Ends jam.
If you want to spend the weekend, you can’t do better for boutique-style luxury than No. 124 (rooms from £170, guesthousehotels.co.uk) The latest addition to the Guesthouse chain of hotels it occupies a prime spot right on the seafront, in an Art Deco house that has been lovingly refurbished. Colour pop soft furnishings and statement walls sit alongside the building’s period features, while the bedrooms are a study in seaside chic: old-timey Roberts radios, restored floorboards and paintings from local artists. Plus, there’s a killer spa, Field Trip, for post-beach treatments. by Vicky Jessop
Best stations to travel from: Victoria or London St Pancras International.
