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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Claire Read

The awe-inspiring bike rides of France’s northern coast

France, Normandy, Mont Saint-Michel, Mont St-Michel, Tourists riding bike on Mont Saint-Michel bridge

Rising star of professional cycling, Frenchman Warren Barguil, won two stages of the Tour de France this year, fanning his nation’s hopes of a long-awaited home win. He’s also a Breton. So when he decided to leave his top division team to join a small team based in Brittany, most of his countrymen offered understanding Gallic nods. After all, cycling is in the blood of residents of this north-west region in France. Neighbouring Normandy isn’t far behind in its love of all things two-wheeled. And it’s little wonder – there are few areas better suited to exploration from the saddle.

With hundreds of kilometres of voies vertes – greenways accessible only to those on two wheels, two feet, or a horse – there are plenty of options for families as well as Lycra-clad fanatics.

Each of these routes is easily accessible from Cherbourg, Le Havre or Caen. So grab your bike, hop on the ferry, and get ready for some truly memorable cycling adventures.


Cherbourg to Querqueville and back (nine miles/14.5km)

France, Normandy, Manche, Cotentin, Cherbourg
Start this route at Cherbourg harbour.
Photograph: Yvon-Lemanour Yvon-Lemanour/Getty Images/Photononstop RM

Best for: families looking for a safe and easy route to peddle.

Highlights: stunning views out to sea.

Start near La Cité de la Mer – Cherbourg’s maritime museum and well worth a visit – and take the cycle path alongside Boulevard de La Saline towards Querqueville. Enjoy the beach, and then head back the way you came.


Ouistreham to Caen (10 miles/16km)

Pegasus Bridge, captured by British soldiers during the Normandy landings.
Pegasus Bridge, captured by British soldiers during the Normandy landings. Photograph: John Turp/Getty Images

Best for: those who want to get on their bikes as soon as they get off the ferry.

Highlights: the Musée Mémorial Pegasus commemorating the British soldiers of the 6th Airborne Division. Their capture of a bridge over the canal was a crucial strategic victory during the Normandy landings.

This path is entirely along a signposted greenway, from Caen’s ferry port into the city itself, and will only take an hour or two to cover. It forms the opening portion of La Vélo Francette cycle route, which runs to La Rochelle.


Caen to Bayeux via Juno beach and Arromanches (28.5 miles/46km)

Juno Beach, Courseulles-sur-Mer, Normandy, France
Juno Beach at Courseulles-sur-Mer. Photograph: Alamy Stock Photo

Best for: the more confident cyclist, as much of the route is along shared roads.

Highlights: arromanches 360° circular cinema, which tells the story of the Battle of Normandy.

From Caen, take the cycle path north to Langrune-sur-Mer. Then head west along the coast towards Courseulles-sur-Mer, home to Juno beach on which Canadian forces landed during D-Day – a museum there commemorates their heroism. Then it’s the D112B south towards Crépon, then north towards Arromanches. From there, take the D87 to Bayeux – home to the famed 70 metre-long Bayeux Tapestry, and only seven miles away.


Cherbourg to Carentan (34 miles/55km)

The route from Cherbourg to Carentan passes through wildlife-rich wetlands.
The route from Cherbourg to Carentan passes through wildlife-rich wetlands. Photograph: Alamy Stock Photo

Best for: cyclists who are growing in confidence.

Highlights: the wildlife-filled marshlands of the Parc naturel regional des Marais du Cotentin et du Bessin.

This is an established and well-signposted route, with no shortage of history along the way. It takes in the medieval cobbled town of La Haye-du-Puits and the châteaux ruins of Brix and Bricquebec.


Ouistreham to Domfront (62 miles/100km)

The historic medieval gate house and entrance to Domfront Castle.
The historic medieval gate house and entrance to Domfront Castle. Photograph: Alamy Stock Photo

Best for: confident cyclists, thanks to some steep sections.

Highlights: the gorges of the Orne Valle, which offer multiple photo opportunities.

This is the first full section of La Vélo Francette and offers its share of undulating terrain. From Caen it’s on to Thury-Harcourt, then the riverside village of Pont-d’Ouilly, Flers – home to a very pretty château – and finally on to historic Domfront, with its 11th-century castle.


La Véloroute du Littoral de la Côte d’Albâtre: Le Havre to Le Tréport (about 100miles/160km)

Cliffs and rock formations at Etretat, Alabaster Coast, Normandy. Image shot 2016. Exact date unknown.G1PF1C Cliffs and rock formations at Etretat, Alabaster Coast, Normandy. Image shot 2016. Exact date unknown.
Rock formations along the Alabaster Coast - the route from Le Havre to Le Tréport features stunning coastal views. Photograph: Alamy Stock Photo

Best for: experienced riders.

Highlights: the stunning coastal views.

This route follows the Alabaster Coast, with glorious views rewarding those confident enough to take on its undulations. It passes through Étretat – which provided inspiration for impressionist painters including Claude Monet – as well as Fécamp, home to a Benedictine abbey and a useful option for an overnight stay.


Tour de Manche: Cherbourg to Roscoff (440miles/708km)

Cascades in stream, Petite Cascade, River Cancon, Mortain, Normandy, France, AprilE55353 Cascades in stream, Petite Cascade, River Cancon, Mortain, Normandy, France, April
The waterfalls at Mortain. Photograph: Alamy Stock Photo

Best for: experienced riders who want a multi-stage adventure.

Highlights: Mont St-Michel, Parc naturel regional des Marais du Cotentin et du Bessin and the waterfalls in Mortain are all glorious.

You may not quite be ready for the Tour de France, but how about the Tour de Manche, a cycling adventure that links France and England? This 754mile/1200km circular route includes parts of Dorset and Devon, or try the French section running from Cherbourg to Roscoff. It is split into stages – Cherbourg to Carentan is the first portion, and uses quiet roads and greenways.

Save up to 20% on 2018 Brittany Ferries sail & stay holidays, even during school holidays. Choose from family friendly chalet camping and apartments, cottages or hotels throughout France and Spain. Book by 6 February.

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