For obscure reasons, the phrase “costume drama” tends to imply something concerned with Britain between the Georgian era and the 1930s. But there’s no reason why ancient Rome shouldn’t be included. One of the many, and perhaps most overlooked, achievements of this 1976 reworking of Robert Graves’s books is that it saved the toga saga from the nudge-nudge comedy of Frankie Howerd’s Up Pompeii! that was endlessly repeated in the early 70s. Derek Jacobi played the stammering “halfwit” who rose, almost accidentally, to power during the height of the Roman empire. It came, it soared, it conquered Photograph: Allstar/BBC/Sportsphoto Ltd./Allstar
All costume dramas unconsciously reflect the time in which they are produced, but some also make more intentional nods to their own era. Seldom was a nod more accurately aimed than in this 2001 adaptation of Anthony Trollope’s novel with the ever pertinent title. Written, inevitably, by Andrew Davies and made as the dotcom bubble burst, it memorably captured the greed and frenzy of financial speculation. David Suchet played Augustus Melmotte as a kind of Robert Maxwell grotesque, and there were also enjoyable outings from Matthew Macfadyen and Shirley Henderson Photograph: Stephen F Morley/BBC
It’s hard to describe Downton Abbey without using the word sumptuous. Said to be the most expensive British TV drama ever filmed, it amounted to much more than the country house porn suggested by some critics. Julian Fellowes’s script was sharp and knowing, combining acute social observation with delicious sexual and financial intrigue. The seven episodes seldom put a foot wrong. Although much was made of Maggie Smith’s performance as the calculating countess, it was Hugh Bonneville, who deserves a knighthood for services to the dinner jacket, who was the classiest act Photograph: ITV
Andrew Davies’s 1995 adaptation of Jane Austen’s classic remains the definitive bonnet and lace romance, chiefly for the remarkable chemistry created by the leads Jennifer Ehle and Colin Firth as Elizabeth Bennet and Mr Darcy. Davies infused Regency manners with sexual urgency, most notably in a scene in which Darcy emerged from a lake in a drenched shirt. The series made a star of Firth and, though Davies had already enjoyed success with his version of Middlemarch the previous year, Pride and Prejudice established him as the number one go-to-guy for 19th-century makeovers Photograph: BBC
The original Upstairs, Downstairs ran for 68 episodes between 1971 and 1975, so quantity often had the edge on quality. But for its creation of distinctive characters, like Mr Hudson (Gordon Jackson) and Rose Buck (Jean Marsh), and its dramatisation of changing mores and social dynamics in the first three decades of the 20th century it earns its place as a landmark production. As the story focused on the travails of an upper-class family and its servants, history with a capital H tended to walk through the front door of 165 Eaton Place as if announced by the butler. A Belgravian rhapsody Photograph: ITV/Rex Features
The 1870s are prime costume drama territory, but not usually in South Dakota. Deadwood warrants its inclusion for being an example of that most uncommon TV genre: the intelligent western. Revisionist westerns enjoy a long tradition in cinema, but TV has remained imprisoned within the Bonanza mould. Created, written and produced by David Milch, Deadwood ran from 2004-2006 and was an inspired blend of historical realism and disturbing fiction. It should also be celebrated for finally giving a suitable platform to Ian McShane, who remains best known as Lovejoy. A dead horse flogged to life Photograph: HBO/Rex Features
Yet another Andrew Davies screenplay. Screened over 15 episodes in 2005, this series must lay a decent claim to the title of best ever Dickens adaptation, as well as being arguably Davies’s most ambitious undertaking. Produced in a soap opera format – twice weekly 30-minute episodes – to echo the novel’s original serialisation, it managed to introduce an enormous cast of characters with minimum effort, while reliably building up dramatic suspense. With stand-out performances from Gillian Anderson and Charles Dance, it looked dark and gorgeous. Dickens for TV addicts Photograph: Mike Hogan/BBC
The British are good at costume dramas, runs the received wisdom, but what that really means is good at depicting the anxieties of the middle and upper-middle classes in starched uniforms. Although When the Boat Comes In had its failings, going on for too long, at its best it brought a passion and wit to working-class struggles, without falling into the familiar traps of poverty chic, sickly sentiment or tiresome lecturing. Set in the north-east in the 1920s, it single-handedly made cloth caps look cool. James Bolan was magnificent as Jack Ford, the hero of the show. We’ll always have Gallowshields Photograph: PR
Again, the 1950s and 60s are not normally filed under the definition of costume, but has there ever been a TV series whose costumes have drawn more approving critical attention? If nothing else, it has rescued the thin necktie from fashion oblivion and almost revived the side parting, which are no mean achievements. The chiselled features of Don Draper (Jon Hamm) are the secret of the series’ success. Such is the camera’s fascination with his pensive face that it has enabled the writers to underwrite and underdramatise – two habits that are nowadays seen as cardinal sins. A great advert for midlife crisis Photograph: AMC
By far Evelyn Waugh’s most successful transition to screen was this 1981 11-part refashioning of his great, flawed, romantic-religious novel. Featuring Laurence Olivier, John Gielgud and Claire Bloom, it also brought international recognition to Jeremy Irons, who played Charles Ryder. What made the series were its high production values, close attention to period detail and, of course, first-rate performances. But it’s perhaps for its unabashed celebration of style that it remains best remembered. Made in the early Thatcher period, it announced a new preference for aesthetics over politics Photograph: ITV / Rex Features/ITV / Rex Features
