Get all your news in one place.
100’s of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
Bangkok Post
Bangkok Post
Travel
PICHAYA SVASTI

Thai-Chinese Heritage

The Wanglee Residence. Pichaya Svasti

Bangkok's Khlong San district on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River opposite Chinatown -- Talat Noi and Yaowarat -- was a place of little interest to many Bangkokians, but not anymore due to the emergence of Lhong 1919, a Sino-Thai historical art centre.

Formerly known as the Wanglee Family's warehouse, it is situated at the end of Chiang Mai Road and has been open since Nov 3.

"The project of Lhong 1919 is catching the eye of both Thai and foreign tourists. Unique in many aspects. It is a place to eat, drink and shop on a good location by the Chao Phraya River. Its historical value lies in ancient Chinese wooden buildings and architecture and the discovery of the 167-year-old Chinese mural art that is worth conservation as a source of study for the future generations. It is expected to welcome tourists from all over the world. It will also help stimulate the economy," said then Tourism and Sports Minister Kobkarn Wattanavrangkul.

Lhong 1919 is a heritage attraction project with mural art depicting stories of Thai-Chinese history along the river. Visitors can pay respect to Goddess Mazu at the Mazu Shrine (Chao Mae Tubtim Shrine) and witness traditional Chinese wooden houses and mural paintings. The place also boasts the "big event" building, stage and outdoor activities, a co-working space, the art and craft designs shop by contemporary artists, the Leisure Point on Chao Phraya River Waterfront Terrace, the public transport pier, and the Wanglee Pier for exclusive ferries.

In the Chinese-style atmosphere, visitors can enjoy shopping at several arts and craft shops while food enthusiasts can savour tasty delicacies. The area near the Mazu Shrine will serve as an arts and crafts area for kid activities and a forum for rising artists to showcase their work at affordable prices.

"The name 'Lhong 1919' originated from the Chinese words 'huo chuán láung' meaning 'steamer pier', while 1919 is the year the Wanglee Family took over the place from the Bisalputra Family," Rujiraporn Wanglee, project manager, explained.

Located on a six-rai plot of land with the building area of 6,800m², Huo Chuán Láung was established in 1850 and overseen by Phraya Phisansuppaphol, founder of the Bisalputra family whose merchant ancestors had travelled from China and settled in Siam during the early Rattanakosin period.

During the reign of King Rama IV when the Bowring Treaty forced Siam to unequal international free trade, ports flourished all over Bangkok and Phraya Phisansuppaphol invested in steamship building. The pier "Huo Chuán Láung" was one of the country's largest steamship ports and also as a main anchoring point where Chinese merchants traded goods with locals and Chinese immigrants obtained their overseas Chinese registration with Siamese authorities.

It was also a commercial hub with shops and warehouses for imported goods from foreign land, such as China, Singapore and Hong Kong. On the waterfront, ships were docked and several shops serve as showrooms. In 1919, Tun Lip Buey from the Wanglee Family became the new owner and rearranged the pier into an office building and warehouse for the family's agricultural produce and imported goods. The place had rental rooms for local labourers to live at affordable prices.

Besides its historical value, Huo Chuán Láung possesses artistic beauty. It was built in the form of attached brick buildings called "Sanhe Yuan" -- a traditional Chinese building plan of three buildings connecting into one u-shaped home with a central multipurpose lawn. The major hall houses the Mazu Shrine. Three wooden statues of Goddess Mazu were brought here from China to Siam on a sea journey 167 years ago. The first depicts Mazu as a young girl who did good deeds and healed the ill using morning dew. The second portrays Mazu as a woman who brings good trades and finances. The third portrays Mazu as an elder believed to be in heaven due to her high morals and compassion.

Huo Chuán Láung was neglected for many years. After all the tenants left a couple of years ago, the buildings rapidly deteriorated. A few months after the tenants departed, Rujiraporn returned to find rainwater had rotted staircases. As she did not want the place to crumble and be replaced by a condo or shopping arcade, she consulted the family and volunteered to spearhead the restoration.

During the restoration, ancient Chinese brush paintings hidden under several layers of repainted colours were discovered on several walls. Their various sizes and designs reflect the place's glorious past as the centre of skilled craftsmen.

According to Rujiraporn, the restoration team kept almost everything in its original condition. They mostly removed old paint that hid the walls' original beauty and repaired broken parts, such as beams, ceilings and stair railings, using materials similar to the original ones.

"We brought back to life this place where our Wanglee family started our lives in Siam. We want to turn it into the area for Thais and foreign tourists to visit and enjoy art and culture at the old pier where most Chinese migrants during the Fourth Reign set their feet on Siam for the first time. This cultural place is worth conservation for the young generations to learn about culture," she said.

Lhong 1919's Art & Craft Shop is open 8am-8pm and Eatery Zone from 10am-10pm daily. Visit facebook.com/Lhong1919 or call 091-187-1919.

Contemporary mural art.
The restoration of murals.
One of the traditional Chinese buildings.
Old Chinese mural art.
Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100’s of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.