When you pop the cork on your bottle of Champagne or sparkling wine this New Year’s Eve you might want to remember this: all of today’s lusty fuss over bubbly is rather funny given the fact that it began life as a fermentation mistake. Today, it’s a prized libation, an affordable luxury, but not so long ago it was a source of unrelenting frustration to the winemakers of France who were trying to eradicate the fizz from secondary fermentation in their wines. Sometimes a flaw is really fortune in disguise—-remember that as you move into 2020 and be open to what the year has in store for you. What follows is a list of some of the finest Champagnes and sparkling wines out there; winemakers have mastered the bubbly business and it’s a great time to indulge.
Champagne First
Palmes d’Or Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Vintage 2008: The faceted black bottle just shouts “this is special” and the contents do not disappoint. As a vintage bottling this wine spent years in the cellar before release; this is also one of those Champagnes that has enough complexity to kick off the evening and go on to pair with dinner. Crafted primarily (95%) from Grand Cru Champagne vineyards of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the wine shows the perfection of the remarkable 2008 vintage—one of the coldest of the decade. Racy threads of bubbles burst on the palate with delicate notes of brioche, baked apple and citrus. It is richly complex, fresh and lively—ideal for a full night of celebrating. $110 (average on Wine Searcher)
Perrier-Jouet Belle Époque Rosé Vintage 2006: Vintage Champagne is a complex and richly woven expression of a single year, in this case 2006, which was a challenging season but a fabulous harvest for Champagne. Sophisticated and rich, the elegance and finesse of this wine are wrapped around notes of strawberry and cherry supported by toasty brioche and orange peel notes. Save this one for the stroke of midnight. $250 (average on Wine Searcher)
Pommery Blanc de Blancs, NV: This is a fairly new expression for the Pommery house, (which introduced the brut style to consumers in 1874). Made with a selection of Chardonnay grapes the palate shows a lemon-cream-meets-apple-pie (with a rich buttery crust) profile. Pearly, fresh and lively this is a great bubbly to sail with you throughout the evening, structured and mineral enough to stand up to food or be enjoyed as an aperitif $67.
Pol Roger Brut Reserve, NV: Polish, precision and purity define this domaine—which was founded in 1849. These Champagnes are still riddled by hand and Pol Roger is home to some of the deepest (and coldest) cellars in the region. Aside from all of that, this was the Champagne served at Harry and Meghan’s royal wedding (and Kate and William’s). They must have loved the notes of Pink Lady apple and lemon cream. $56 (average on Wine Searcher)
Marc Hébrart, Mes Favorites Premier Cru NV: Master Sommelier Ian Cauble, who curates the selections on SommSelect (a website I suggest any wine lover investigate) raved about this bottling, which he described as an “opulent, mineral-explosive gem… a complete masterclass on chalk-driven soils, expert winemaking, and the payoff that comes with extended maturation.” We loved the rich mousse with notes of Golden Delicious apple and ginger with threads of chalky minerality to keep things focused. $67
American Sparkling
Trisaetum Pashey Coast Range Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut: These select Oregon sparkling wines from James Frey at Trisaetum winery are made in small lots of dry-farmed sustainably grown fruit. Small production means limited availability (online is best for sourcing) but the delicate, complexly layered taste is worth it. Made from 100% Chardonnay, this extra brut style shows amazing depth and richness and yet is still quite low in residual sugar. $65
La Crema Brut Rosé, Russian River Valley: If you like the La Crema wines, you’ll like this sparkling—it’s rich with a lovely mouse-like texture, aromas of strawberries and raspberries and a fine thread of citrus to keep things fresh. $50
Chandon étoile Rosé NV: Winemaker Pauline Lhote, who hails from France, is making her mark on this esteemed California domaine and this sparkling’s 92 rating from the Wine Spectator is further proof of Lhote’s talents. Made with a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier from the Carneros region, the palate sings with bright berry freshness, citrus and a note of warm spice. Pretty in the glass and tasty on the palate—another elegant example of what California can do with bubbly. $55
Best Value Sparkling to Keep the Party Going:
Ackerman Crémant de Loire Cuvée 1811 Brut, NV: This lively and fresh sparkling from France’s Loire region gets much of its racy edge from the region’s mineral-rich soils. The winery was established in 1811 (so they know a thing or two about winemaking). This is a blend of 70% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Cabernet Franc, all grapes are hand-harvested and then produced in the traditional method with a second fermentation in bottle. After all of that, the wine is then aged on the lees for up to 18 months. $21.99
Scharffenberger Brut Rosé, NV: Zesty and fresh this sparkling from California’s Mendocino region bursts with bright raspberry and peach notes. Named one of Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 Wines for 2019, it is a screaming steal for $26. In case you were wondering, they named Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco the #1 wine, but it’s fermented in large tanks (not in each individual bottle like Champagne) and we aren’t drinking that on New Year’s Eve people. $26
