June 13--Teen retailers beloved during the '90s have had a rough go. Wet Seal, Deb Shops and Delia's declared bankruptcy over the holiday period, and the alliterative quartet of Abercrombie and Fitch, Aeropostale, American Apparel and American Eagle are struggling.
Neil Saunders, retail analyst at consultancy Conlumino, said various pressures have hurt the category. The difficulty finding part-time work during the economic downturn left teens with less cash in their pockets, competition from low-priced fast-fashion stores drew customers away, and teens who used to save their pennies for fashion are now spending on consumer electronics, he said.
In addition, the constant churn of teen tastes and the short window of relevance in customers' life spans makes it difficult to stay current, Saunders aid.
American Eagle has recently started to turn a corner, Saunders said, thanks to less logo-ed clothing and the launch of its Don't Ask Why line of festival-inspired looks.
But the others continue to falter for different reasons. Aeropostale lacks brand image, Saunders said. Abercrombie is having trouble shedding the baggage of its strong brand image, with its scented stores and all-American beauties, and is expensive, he said.
American Apparel also is out of step with a new generation not as drawn to its aggressively rebellious branding. With so much choice and the swift turnover of fast fashion, teens can create individual looks without a rebel brand leader, Saunders said. In addition, he said, teens today tend to be more cautious than generations that came before them.
At the other end of the alphabet, Urban Outfitters has improved with thoughtful collections, Saunders said. And Zumiez has been growing. Its sporty street aesthetic gives it a point of view, Saunders said, and because it stocks external brands it is less vulnerable if a product tanks.
aelejalderuiz@tribpub.com
