As casual and comforting as the term "afternoon tea" sounds, sometimes I wonder whether the oh-so-popular gastronomic affair should be enjoyed at most ease and amid a breezy setting, rather than confined within a hotel lobby, surrounded by fashionably clad socialites.

Then I learned about the Library, an all-day dining outlet of the low-rise U Sathorn Bangkok hotel.
At this small casual eatery -- flocked to by local families and laid-back international tourists -- four options are offered to those looking for the afternoon ritual.
A set of Thai Temptations (399 baht) offers a small selection of local treats, specifically khanompangsangkhaya, or steamed bun with custard; and brioche toast with caramelised banana and honey sugar glaze.
The local-style afternoon treats served in Thai tiffin box.
A Pinto Triple Pleasure (499 baht) is perfect if you wish to sample some favourite local snacks -- savoury and sweet alike. The set, which comes in a traditional multi-tier tiffin box, displays the likes of crabmeat and lemongrass sandwich; crispy rice crackers with shrimp curry dip; Thai pumpkin soufflé; candyfloss crepe and mango scones with fresh mango jam.
Guests looking for Western-style "sweet sensations" might want to opt for the set of that name (599 baht). Served in a wooden treasure case, they will find cassis macarons, financier cakes, Madelines, lemon tarts, dark chocolate mousse with berries, and assorted scones with clotted cream.
The last option, a best-seller here, combines afternoon-tea classics with locally popular finger food.
The Signature Edition (699 baht) was represented on the day I visited by bacon and leek miniature quiches; deep-fried vegetable spring rolls; crispy golden dumplings with prawn filling; egg salad sandwich; open-face sandwich with smoked salmon rosette; blackberry financier cake; assorted scones with jam and clotted cream; crème brûlée; thong yord (Thai sweet golden egg drops); and look choop (sweet mung bean balls).
Each set is designed for two persons to share and served with a choice of hot tea or coffee.
Don't feel restrained should you feel like building up a decent meal out of your afternoon gathering.
The Library also has a nice selection of all-day grub that promises to delight fans of both Thai and Western fare.
I fell in love with its heirloom tomato salad (350 baht), a photogenic and tasty exhibition of multicoloured tomatoes, fine slices of prosciutto, candied fig, Italian burrata cheese, young arugula leaves, basil oil and balsamic.
The Library at U Sathorn is one of a very few places in the city to offer tarte flambés, aka flammkuchen (290 baht), a traditional South German pizza-like delicacy.
Here, the super-thin and crispy treat was executed perfectly with morsels of smoked bacon, onion slices and French Brie cheese to offer a scrumptious, irresistible mouthfeel.
Another à la carte dish to complement an afternoon affair is moo ping, or Thai-style grilled marinated pork on bamboo stick (180 baht), served with sticky rice and spicy tamarind paste dipping sauce.
The afternoon tea is served from 2-5pm at the Library restaurant, U Sathorn Bangkok on Soi Ngam Duphli, off Sathon 1. Call 02-119-4888.
