When I wrote my first article in January I was writing from snowy England, pondering the prospect of returning to Colombia, but it's always easier talking about things than actually doing them. Well, I took the plunge and left the home comforts behind once again, and I've now been back in the tropical and crazy city of Cali for just under two months.
I wanted to return to Cali as I had a good group of friends and contacts here, know the city fairly well, and understand how things work – although as it's South America, nothing truly works as it should. It is a strange feeling coming back, friends warmly greet me, astonished I've returned, the lady in the corner shop asks the same questions about the Queen, and the surreal nature of playing cricket in a tropical climate with a bunch of English people will never be lost on me.
On both my previous visits to South America I'd arrived to find temporary accommodation and a job as a British Council language assistant ready and waiting for me, but that wasn't the case this time. Being here independently poses a whole host of problems, first of all, where to stay. Luckily an English friend invited me to live with his family for a month, but if I was in a new city, I'd have to stay in a hostel before getting established, which could turn out rather costly.
Then of course, there's the job hunt. I didn't think it would be easy, but with a certificate in English language teaching to adults (CELTA) qualification now proudly tucked under my arm, I hoped to work at the university where I was last year. However, reported "financial irregularities" have left the univeristy in trouble with the government, and it has had to cut wages and stop hiring new teachers. I enquired at other universities but unfortunately was a week or so late, as term had already started.
There are language institutes in most South American cities, and these obviously provide a significant source of employment opportunities. It's a basic supply-and-demand market for teachers, if there are classes that need teaching, and no one to teach them, you'll be in a job the same day, without too much consideration of your qualifications or experience. On the other hand, if classes are all taken, you have to take the owner's word that he'll contact you if something comes up. It's just being in the right place at the right time, and it can be frustrating hearing the same empty promises.
I persisted though, and now have a job teaching 18 hours a week in an institute near where I live. The work is not as well paid as either in schools or universities, but it's slightly "cowboy" nature does have advantages. You're generally paid cash-in-hand, which saves the hassle of trying and failing to open a bank account, and classes are small and fairly stress-free, with motivated adult students.
Institute teaching is generally evening and Saturday based, due to students working during the week, so you can end up with a lot of free time. Touting private classes is a good way to earn some extra cash and keep yourself busy throughout the day. I currently teach a lady who runs her own business and she has recommended me to her friends. I am getting more work as my reputation grows, and this private work is proving quite lucrative.
The most problematic issue at the moment is my visa. Again, last time that was all organised for me, but without a job this time I arrived with a standard two month tourist visa that expires in two weeks, although it is extendable for about £25 for up to six months. I could border hop to Ecuador for about the same price and receive another two month visa, but that would mean a weekend trip, so think I'll opt for the former.
Working for universities and schools without a work visa is difficult, but not impossible. It's very much a case of the chicken and the egg, it's hard to get a visa without a job, and hard to get a job without the visa. My boss is investigating a possible student visa which should be valid for six months, and is apparently easier to apply for than a work one. My goal is to get a job in a private school for August, and they would then help out with the relevant visa papers and fees.
I have also returned to my old one-day-a-week job at a private school, which specialises in teaching pupils with behavioural and attention problems. It's hard work at times, but a fantastic experience. In England you'd never be able to teach such children without relevant qualifications, but here I've been entrusted with a lot of responsibility, together with a decent salary.
Going abroad independently is obviously harder and more complicated than going on a more organised trip, but people do it and succeed all the time. I look at it as an adventure, if you don't try, you never find out. There are things you love and look forward to every day, such as the unbelievably outgoing people, amazing fruit juices and wonderful weather in Cali, but you also find some things that drive you mad. I don't think I'll ever understand Colombians' tolerance of cold showers at 6am, motorbikes on the pavement, or bus drivers being able to decide when their bus is actually full, or if a few more people can just hang off the side.
I've now found myself a cheap, furnished apartment in the central, historic and increasingly touristy area of San Antonio where there's a small but quite close-knit group of foreigners and Colombians. The very social culture here often means that a few beers on the street with a friend on a Friday night turns into a large salsa dancing group drinking aguardiente and rum into the early hours of Saturday morning. And that's Cali for you – the party city of Colombia, a great place to live, and a difficult place to get up for work on a Saturday morning.
You can follow David's posts about teaching and Colombia at www.latinodave.blogspot.com
