In many ways, vanilla is quintessentially English, its flavour a distinctive feature of staples including Victoria sponge and – the ultimate comfort food – custard.
Yet the vanilla pod grows many miles from Europe in some of the remotest and poorest parts of the world, including Madagascar, Papua New Guinea and Tonga.
It is not an easy crop to cultivate. Highly labour intensive, each flower is hand-pollinated and a crop yields just one annual harvest. There is nothing cosy about being a vanilla farmer and many have thrown in the towel as it has become harder and harder to eke out a living in competition with synthetic alternatives.
A family owned business, Taylor & Colledge, has been selling vanilla for over a century. Dr Sam Himstedt, the company's managing director, said: "We have seen first-hand how irresponsible buying and sourcing practices have led to the decimation of vanilla growing in some of the poorest parts of the world. But if vanilla production is managed responsibly and sustainably then the wider community benefits."
In 2013, Taylor & Colledge pioneered an ambitious programme in Tonga to regenerate its neglected vanilla industry, where only 30 farmers were left growing the crop. The company worked with the government, agricultural offices and landholders on the island of Vava'u to develop a vanilla rehabilitation programme to support farmers throughout the growing season – not just at the end when they have crops to sell.
The company provided funds to cut overgrowth around neglected vines, built fencing and finance plantation management and development programmes to encourage more growers into the industry.
The response from farmers, who on average each support six family members, was overwhelming – over 260 joined the programme in year one. Taylor & Colledge guarantees it will buy farmers' vanilla – for which it is seeking organic and Fairtrade status – at a fair price. A year in, the programme is close to Fairtrade certification.
Nicolette Fox is part of the wordworks network
The Guardian Sustainable Business Sustainability Case Studies contain articles on all the initiatives that met the criteria for the GSB Awards.
