If you want to encounter an eclectic bunch of people looking exceptionally pleased with themselves, and probably catch the bug yourself, hop across the River of Kings from Tha Phra Athit (if pedestrian) or Tha Wat Ratchathiwat Samsen 9 (if parking) and travel back to a golden era at Praya Palazzo Dining.
Recently meticulously renovated, the plush antique restaurant commands the garden floor of the beautiful Praya Palazzo boutique hotel, with just 15 enchanting fully appointed guest rooms and a mellow pool terrace from which to watch the passing river parade as you lounge or swim.
The lemon yellow with cream piping and red tiled roof villa, ensconced among riotous gardens, dates back to 1923, when a bunch of Italian artists undertook commissions for King Rama V. Praya Chollabhumipanich, a noble of the Royal Court Customs Department, assigned to design and build a home-office, followed the favoured Palladio style of the day superbly.
More recently, we have Asst. Prof. Wichai Pitakvorrarat to thank for reinvigorating the buildings in 2009 and considerable kudos too, to Montara Hospitality Group (Trisara Phuket, Prince Theatre Heritage Stay) for lavishing much love and lucre on reincarnating the property as a visceral Thai upper class vintage wining, dining and travelling experience.
With its plum red walls, lustrous wooden floor, timber beamed ceiling, carved door arches, scarlet and azure velvet upholstered dining chairs, antique cabinets and art, and chandelier-centred lighting, the main dining room spills into more intimate alcove areas.
Every mouthful of remarkable Chef Busakol Akarapattaranithi and team’s unabashedly classic cuisine offers a retro-authentic blast.
The a la carte menu goes for rarity tempered with favourites. Or elect for the Signature Set Menu at Baht 1800 for two and Baht 2,800 for four, including soft drinks and hot drinks.
Many dishes are indicative of a particular monarch’s reign.
Goong Sarong, whole shrimps deep-fried in Chinese noodle flour batter, a third of the mixed appetizer platter, for instance, are straight outta Ayutthaya (1351-1767) when the Chinese introduced stir-frying, frying, and deep frying and Persian and Indian traders brought the first curry spices.
Latieng, minced pork, shrimp, chilli and peanuts wrapped in egg mesh are from King Rama II (1809-1824) times when Queen Sri Suriyendra Boroma Rachini became a legend for her culinary prowess.
Kratong Thong marinated minced chicken and vegetables you shovel into crispy golden cups is first recorded during the Rama IV (1851-1868) era when really sophisticated Thai food started to emerge from palace kitchens.
Next is a superb spicy shrimp dipping with crispy catfish and fresh Thai vegetables from Rama V (1809-1824)'s days.
This is followed by a choice of lemongrass soup with prawn and shrimp paste or traditional pork or beef soup with shrimp paste, the latter being more interesting as it is not tom yam gung. Spicy sour without being too fiery, it's a retro revelation.
The mains are a generous feast with green curry chicken or, our choice, a consummate beef massaman curry served with roti, extolled in a poem by the young King Rama II, leading off.
The also excellent steamed sea bass with sweet tamarind sauce, ginger and mushroom became a classic in Rama V's reign, as did the sour, sweet and rich stir-fried pork tenderloin with yellow chilli paste and bai sieow leaf. Even the dish of wok-fried mixed vegetables with oyster sauce is exceptionally well-cooked, crisp and tasty. All go exceedingly well with perfectly cooked jasmine rice.
Desserts such as tapioca balls with pandan and palm balls with young coconut, both benefit from an ambrosial coconut milk broth.
Light classical western and Thai music pervades the air waves.
No wonder one’s fellow diners all look so smug.
Praya Palazzo, tel. 02 649 4955 for reservations, 081 402 8118 to arrange ferry.
Email: reservation@prayapalazzo.com.
