Differentiating your fine dining offering might seem a tall order. But not for Il Fumo Restaurant & Bar, a take-no-prisoners gastronomy project of Foodie Collection couple Choti Leenutaphong and Debby Tang (also Vesper, La Dotta), in collaboration with Italian culinary influencer Luca Appino (La Bottega di Luca, Pizza Massilia).
Take its brawn in the beef department as a prime example. Sourcing cuts from the obscurest artisan farms, if anyone else muscles in on one of its finds, it simply introduces tastier treasures. Think Florentine-style Chianinas, Diamantiana Australian wagyu, and the most recently arrived Portuguese "Carne Barrosã". Not to mention sustainably sourced Wild Atlantic trout, Mazara del Vallo red prawns, and Dutch eel.
But there's an element of uniqueness in every slice it serves, given that Il Fumo ages the beef in a featured glass fridge opposite the well-stocked wine cellar and cooks it over bespoke, adjustable grills suggestive of a Spanish Inquisition torture, with home-cooked fragrant charcoal (Italian cherry wood for beef and pork, and olive and apple woods for seafood).
With Portuguese ex-Michelin 3-star "8½ Otto e Mezzo – Bombana", Hong Kong, chef Nelson Amorin, holding court in the kitchen, it's already been visited by eminence grises of Bangkok's 1st Michelin Guide.
New 7-course Discovery (B2,500++, wine pairing B1,700++) and 9-course Degustation (B2,800++, B2,000++ wine pairing) menus creatively explore cross-cultural combinations of Portuguese and Italian flavours with produce from the Mediterranean and Atlantic seaboards.
7-courses start with amuse bouches of: Portuguese Sapateira crab meat cone/dill cream/oscietra caviar; squid ink polenta chip/cod fish mousse/Italian black olive; Portuguese Farinheira pork sausage/pear compote.
Salted Italian crispy flat-bread/oregano with biodynamic extra virgine Sicilian olive oil follows with charcoal grilled whole-wheat and focaccia breads/whipped butter/caper leaf/caper powder.
Then Mazara del Vallo red prawn tartare/champagne-poached grapes/oscietra caviar.
Then succulent ‘Kokotxa' of Bacalhau cod fish jaw flesh, carbonara egg yolk/pecorino/guanciale.
Next, choose from homemade duck egg tagliolini/black truffle OR potato/flour gnocchi with livid green sea plankton.
For the main course, Portuguese Barrosa Beef/mashed potato/cherry tomato/beetroot is where the gruesome grill comes into its own. You start with the grating lowered to sear the meat at very high temperature and create a delicious crust, then lift it to roasting height to cook evenly and tenderize (the heavy, ultra-sharp branded Italian steak knives are hardly necessary). You can see why they call it Il Fumo (smoke) because it's all happening in plain view behind glass. The option is slow-roasted suckling pig with Sicilian Bronte pistachio cream/orange/turnip.
The pre-dessert contrasts the salty sourness of black olive-infused, sponge cake with the pure citrus of orange ice cream.
Grilled peach pastels/ricotta cheese/port wine reduction/hazelnut crunch/mixed berry sherbet follows.
Conclude with earthy beetroot jelly; sour Sicilian lemon tart; bitter chocolate "salami"; sweet lavender macaron petit fours.
Classic martinis with fine gin, vermouth and bitters are mixed from a trolley beside your table.
Sommelier Thanakorn Mankit has curated wine pairings to compliment the tasting menu.
Il Fumo's ambiance takes inspiration from an Italian country home where residents of Milan would spend time during their holidays. The original house, built in the early 20th century by descendants of King Rama IV, features a chic patio. There are 90 seats in the main dining area and two private rooms.
Open Monday – Sunday: 18h00 – 24h00.
www.ilfumo.co
@ilfumobkk
Tel. 02 286 8833 or email. choti@ilfumo.co
