Fortnum and Mason
The venerable Spanish olive variety Royal was almost dying out when Castillo de Canena decided to reinvigorate it, replanting trees from the Andalucian hills on their picturesque estate. Picked early in the season, the Royal olives produce a vibrant oil that makes for a very distinguished dipping session. It could be that the bottle’s prominently displayed tasting notes (“fresh grass, banana, artichoke”) are leading, but First Early Royal does have strangely likeable overtones of green banana, and a lovely grassy freshness shown off to its best advantage with chunks of well- seasoned sourdough Photograph: Balta Fotografo/PR
Carluccio’s, carluccios.com
Carluccio’s carries a slippery handful of decent oils, but this typically peppery Tuscan is one of the most appealing. As its name implies, Il Padrone is part of a limited production originally destined for the table of the estate owner. A blend of four olive varieties from the Montalbano hills, it is smooth and well-balanced, with a subtle kick. The beautiful gold-green colour and a hit of citrus and pepper, almost like sorrel, make it great for drizzling over pale but robust chargrilled fish and seafood; squid is ideal. Photograph: PR
Lakeland, lakeland.co.uk
Produced by a grower's co-operative in one of Greece's oldest olive groves, Kritsa picked up the International Olive Council's prestigious Mario Solinas award for quality last year. This Cretan oil is pale and light, with a smooth, rich finish, low acidity and a quiet fruitiness, and it's a pleasure to find it among Lakeland's limited but rather smart selection of foodstuffs. Perfect for dressing a floppy green salad made with soft English lettuce, it is also priced at an astoundingly reasonable £3.99; no need to keep it for best Photograph: Felix Clay
