TANEGASHIMA, Kagoshima -- White waves can be seen lapping against the sheer cliff right below the observatory at Kadokura Cape, the southern tip of Tanegashima island in Kagoshima Prefecture. Looking east, the observatory commands a fine view of a gently arching coastline. It is a splendid view.
A Chinese ship drifted to the coast on Aug. 25, 1543. Feudal lord Tanegashima Tokitaka spent a lot of money buying matchlock guns from Portuguese merchants aboard the ship, and soon ordered local blacksmiths to domestically produce matchlock guns.
The matchlock gun introduced to the island from abroad and the first one produced domestically are displayed together at the Tanegashima Development Center (Firearms Museum). The production method for matchlock guns quickly spread nationwide. It was the warring states period and, with the advent of the matchlock gun, battle tactics changed entirely and Japan headed toward being a unified country.
"It was not a product of chance that matchlock guns were introduced at Tanegashima," said Nishinoomote City Library director Yasutoyo Sameshima, who is well versed in the area's history. "When ships moved north on the Kuroshio Current, Tanegashima was where they would first arrive. Furthermore, the island produced iron sand and had skilled blacksmiths. As iron manufacturing and processing technology already existed on the island, it was possible to make matchlock guns locally."
As much as historical materials can confirm, about 40 foreign ships drifted to or wrecked on Tanegashima on the Kuroshio Current from the eighth century on.
Exit to outer space
Tanegashima became an entrance for foreigners from Europe in the past, but is now becoming an exit to space. The Tanegashima Space Center is the largest rocket launch site in Japan, with a surface of about 9.7 million square meters.
"There were strict location requirements for the center, including proximity to the equator, remoteness from densely populated areas, good infrastructure for running water and electric power sources, and smooth transportation of staff members and equipment," said Hiromichi Kojima, a staffer in charge of public relations. "When construction started in 1966, Okinawa had not yet reverted to Japan. So the island was selected as the most suitable candidate."
The Space Science and Technology Museum, within the center's premises, features space development displays with images, models and panels. With prior reservations, you can take a tour inside the space center. Visitors can also see a control room and a real H2 rocket stored in a hangar that was not used for a planned liftoff, as another such rocket had failed to lift off. We can realize that this place is a connection point with outer space.
Landscape like alien world
Also on Tanegashima is a place that makes one think of an alien world: peculiarly shaped giant rocks and caves created by erosion from waves. Zo no Mizunomi Iwa is a natural rock formation that looks like an elephant drinking from the ocean with its nose.
Chikura no Iwaya is a cave with a large opening through which one can see the ocean. At low tide, a spacious sand floor appears in the cave and it is said that 1,000 people could sit down on it. Ako no Arch is a gigantic ako tree (Ficus superba) hovering over a street. It looks like a huge beast.
A naturally growing hego fern (Cyathea spinulosa) forest in the northern part of the island is my favorite. I went there on a hot September afternoon, but the forest was like another world. Large-sized hego ferns were growing, surrounded by thick giant cedar trees. It was like a fantastic place where a dinosaur could silently appear in the dimly lit shade of trees covered with thick greenery.
Surfers, hot springs
The beautiful sea is one of the island's attractions. Blessed with good waves, it is a popular spot for surfers. In addition, there are diving spots where one can encounter schools of migratory fish, such as rainbow runner and bonito. Driving along the coastline, white beaches appear one after another, as well as hot springs where people can casually drop in. When visitors find a beach to their liking, they can swim there before enjoying a hot spring.
'Ingi' chicken
Ingi chicken, one of the specialties of Tanegashima, has an origin unique to the island itself.
In 1894, when a British ship ran aground off the coast of southern Tanegashima, the islanders gave succor and offered warm hospitality to the crew, who stayed there for four months to repair the ship. The islanders called them "Ingi-san" and became good friends with the sailors. "Ingi" is believed to be derived from the Japanese word "igirisu" meaning "England." When the sailors left the island, they presented the islanders with 11 chickens they raised for food on the ship. The islanders had never seen such small and featherless chickens, and have been raising them on the island ever since.
Ingi Jidori no Sato is a restaurant that serves dishes with poultry raised at a chicken farm directly managed by the restaurant. The dishes include sashimi, chicken roasted on a ceramic plate, steak, sukiyaki, fried chicken and a bowl of rice topped with chicken and egg. Restaurant customers can enjoy chewy, richly flavored Ingi chicken.
Anno-imo potatoes for souvenirs
Tanegashima offers up a lot of souvenirs, including marine products like abalone and silver-stripe round herring, sweets made with purple sweet potato and black sugar, and shochu distilled liquor.
Anno-imo, one of the island's specialties, descends from sweet potatoes originally brought back from Indonesia by soldiers at the end of World War II. Anno-imo has been grown widely and improved on the island, and is characterized by its gooey texture when cooked. Recommended sweets using anno-imo include tarts and pies.
Access
One hour and 45 minutes from Haneda Airport to Kagoshima Airport, and a further 35 minutes to Tanegashima Airport with a connecting flight. Regular route buses, taxis and rental cars are available on the island.
For more information, call the Tanegashima Tourism Association at (0997) 23-0111.
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