Provence is a very distinctive restaurant in its own right.
There, it's never about a presentation of classic Provençal cuisine in a dreamy, shrubland-inspired setting.
Discerning epicures in Bangkok have long associated the three-decade-old restaurant, of which its original venue was conveniently situated in a hallway of the once super luxurious Peninsula Plaza and name portraying France's southeastern region, with truly trustworthy and delicious Thai fare.
Provence's newest branch -- this week's subject of review -- opened two years ago on the lobby level of Gayson Plaza.
Taking cues from the original establishment, the 90-seater regards itself as an all-day dining restaurant with approximately 60% of its menu dedicated to all-time favourite dishes. The rest -- both the food and drinks -- basically revolves to clients' demand and best seasonal produce.
"We tend to listen to customers' requests and suggestions rather than try to design the menu ourselves. Because this restaurant is not to serve the management, but the clients," said Provence's manager Dominick Sudhirak.
At this new outlet, clientele is built up through long-time regulars (high-ranking politicians and well-heeled families) as well as expatriates and foreign tourists.
Dishes are prepared to time-honoured recipes with high-quality ingredients. The kitchen, regardless of the current trend, has an earnest appreciation for artisanal local produce.
"We produce much of our food from scratch but have to admit that some ingredients are best supplied by specialists," Dominick said.
"For example, we have a very close relationship with a self-made kitchen master who makes the best duck confit and a brilliant ice cream artisan who concocts very special flavours. Thus we are not going to cure our duck or churn our ice cream, we just buy from them.
"Sometimes our customers are the ones who recommend to us where to find good ingredients. Or they might just mention that they'd like to eat a dish from particular vendor and we will cater to their needs. As simple as that. Just like a family."
My lunch visit started off with a most-ordered starter: gui chai, or steamed chive dumplings (150 baht).
In a city where too many vendors claim their gui chai expertise, let me announce that Provence's offering proved among the very few best bets.
The dumpling skin was slightly gummy, neither stiffly starchy nor frail, encasing tightly a portion of sautéed vegetable. Vinegar-seethed dark soy sauce lent the delicious dumplings a salty sweet and sour finish.
Another all-time best-seller is guay tiew ruea, or boat noodles with beef in brown broth (270 baht). Forget the typical flimsy portion of ragged meat you'd find at most noodle stalls, the restaurant has raised this street-side menu to a gourmet level thanks to a substitution of New Zealand rib-eye.
Expansive and succulent slices of the imported beef came laid on top of the properly-cooked high-quality rice noodles. The dense broth likewise deserved high praise for its soothingly tasty quality.
We also tried khao soi, a Northern-style noodle dish featuring a duo of egg noodles -- some deep-fried and some blanched -- in yellow curry, and were extremely pleased.
Instead of a classic protein choices of chicken or braised beef, the restaurant wisely opted for confit duck leg. The duck was prepared to the traditional French recipe and exhibited firm and flavourful meat underneath a crispy skin. The curry was subtly seasoned, a well balance of tastes, that I found no need for extra seasoning.
Next up was a seasonal menu of grilled catfish with nam pla wan (caramelised fish sauce) and sadao (neem tree) flowerets (170 baht). Sadao flowerets are abundant in the cooler months, from November to January.
The catfish was grilled over a wood fire until its meat turned yellowish gold and absorbed a smoky char whiff. Perfectly complimenting the fish was a slightly bitter crunch of sadao and a sweet ambrosial taste of fresh coriander. The salty sweet nam pla wan was of a transparent honey quality, sprinkled with crispy deep-fried shallots and roasted dried chillies. Put all the elements together and you'll get a heavenly bite of the freshwater fish dish.
Until mid December, the restaurant runs a special promotion of khanom jeen (Thai fermented rice-flour noodles) with a selection of curries.
My dining companion and I fell in love with khanom jeen nam phrik (195 baht). It's a neat platter of noodles, assorted vegetables (namely banana blossoms, water morning glory, cha-om and string beans), half-boiled duck egg and a bowl of sweet and spicy shrimp-peanut curry.
Provence salad (275 baht), a healthy and surprising scrumptious unification of crisp iceberg lettuce, tuna, anchovies and crushed red chillies, proved also a great option.
Provence is also the place to find Bangkok's best caramelised kluay khai (Thai pisang mas banana).
Served with lightly salted coconut cream, the syrup-leavened banana boasted addictive taste and impeccable mouthfeel.
We officially wrapped up our meal with ice cream (195 baht per a two-scoop order), settling on two exclusive flavours so eccentric most people either love or hate them.
Perfectly depicting the restaurant's name was the purple-hued lavender ice cream, a delicious hybrid between silky taro ice cream and natural lavender essence. While the other flavour option, representing a different world, was durian made with the creamy meat of the fruit's mon thong cultivar.
Both the lavender and the durian ice cream proved at the top of their games.
The restaurant is adjacent to the plaza's drop off. Thus it's a convenient dining destination for elderly guests. Service staff were cordial and efficient but never attached.
