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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK

Take it from a Brit, Sweden's countryside is worth a visit

Swedish hikers
In Sweden, everyone has the right to enjoy the countryside. Photograph: Roger Borgelid

One of the reasons we started our company is because we felt that for a lot of people, the thought of a trip to Sweden begins and ends with Stockholm. We wanted to introduce the unspoilt beauty of the Swedish countryside to a wider audience. In particular, we felt that many Brits didn’t realise just how accessible much of Sweden is: in fact, you could leave the hustle and bustle of London first thing and find yourself in the tranquility of a Swedish forest by just after lunch. And even better, you don’t have to be an expert or extreme adventurer to get to experience Sweden’s great outdoors.

A self-guided kayak tour of Bohuslän off the west coast of Sweden is the ideal marine adventure for novices. The open sea around the UK means you really need to know what you’re doing or else stick to a guided tour, but the waters of Bohuslän are protected by an archipelago. With just a little bit of instruction at the beginning of the tour, even first timers can take off to explore rocky inclines and pristine beaches at their own pace. In summer, the water temperature reaches 19C-20C, so an evening dip is a lovely way to relax those arm muscles after a tough day’s kayaking.

There’s not even any need to worry about making a particular campsite by nightfall, because Sweden offers the opportunity to camp wild. The concept of allmansrätten translates as “every man’s right”. It’s not law, but a concept enshrined in Swedish society that everyone has the right to enjoy the countryside and its wild places. It isn’t a free-for-all – its guiding principle is do not disturb, do not destroy – but it does offer an amazing opportunity to make unspoilt beach or forest clearings your home for the night. Many of the beaches are uninhabited, so thanks to the freedoms afforded by allmansrätten, you may well even find your own private island for the night. Just don’t forget to remove all traces you were ever there before you leave.

Kayaking, kayak, paddling, pink granite, Bohuslan, Swedish west coast.
Kayaking is easy in the gentle waters of the Bohuslän archipelago. Photograph: Christian Aslund/Getty Images/Lonely Planet Images

While sea kayaks are fine for older children, kids as young as six can come along in an open Canadian canoe, so it’s a great way to introduce them to a rural adventure. Sweden has a huge network of lakes and rivers, many of them winding through deep forest that will make you feel as though you have the entire world to yourself. In Dalsland, the Lake District of Sweden, there are designated camping areas, which offer almost all the freedom of allmansrätten with the added conveniences of fire pits and dry outdoor toilets.

Many people opt to combine a canoe safari with a few days relaxing afterwards in a forest yurt, which offers a little more in the way of creature comforts than a tent, including a fully equipped outdoor kitchen. With a forest shower (where the water’s pre-warmed on a stove) and oil lamps to light the yurts in the evening, it’s the perfect way to experience the simplicity and innocence of nature. The area offers a wide range of hiking trails, and there’s a lake a short walk away for wild swimming and fishing.

Skåne not only offers quiet forests and lovely rural landscapes, but you’re also never far from the sea either, and the beaches and coastline are stunning. Visit the dramatic rocky cliffs of Kullaberg nature reserve at Skåne’s north-west tip or try some stand-up-paddleboarding off the glorious beaches around Skillinge in the beautiful Österlen region. The Skåneleden trail takes in these and many other coastal highlights too, as well as offering a great way to explore the region’s interior.

All too often ecotourism comes with a price tag, but in Sweden it’s such a way of life that it’s a surprisingly affordable option. Food, and certainly alcohol, will set you back a bit more than usual, but public transport is relatively cheap, as is equipment rental and, of course, camping under the stars doesn’t cost a thing. A few days exploring the peace and quiet of some of Europe’s most beautiful forest, lakeland and coastal landscapes should convince you that there’s a lot more to Sweden than city breaks.

Nature Travels is a specialist tour operator offering outdoor and adventure holidays in Sweden. To book your next outdoor experience in Skåne and West Sweden go to www.naturetravels.co.uk

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