Austin, Texas, just before the onslaught of smoking guys. Photograph: Ed Lallo, Getty
Austin is super hot. The city is teeming with over 10,000 industry characters and music faithful hungry for the best bites from the endless number of acts appearing at this year's SXSW festival. Then there are all the parties and after-parties and parties after after-parties happening around the official programme, each attempting to lure you in with enticements ranging from free beer, Louisiana-style shrimp and hush puppies to glamour-puss makeovers and a midnight scavenger hunt with Andrew WK.
Exactly what sort of people does this kind of activity attract? "You cannot imagine the number of hot smoking guys who are here," was one text I received from an early arriver the night before making my way to Texas. The next, as I boarded my plane: "Just got laid."
The "smoking" visuals aren't only appreciated by the visitors: Austin native Chelsea Valentine speaks highly of the attractive change in landscape that occurs during the festival, applauding the self-respecting looks brought into a baggy, lazy-paced zone. As my host and maternal guide to the ins and outs of the overwhelming schedule, she reminds me that her local duties during this period include the dirty task of putting up bands. So I'm staying at a party house with a number of guests including members of bearded, ex-con, prairie rockers VietNam, NY visionary trio the Boggs and new Sub Pop signing Jesy Fortino (Tiny Vipers).
As I arrive, Jesy's forthcoming CD is playing on the stereo and my temporary roommates Josh and his father Peter Case have just returned from forcing a face-melting gig at Mother Egan's playing power-pop classics Hanging on the Telephone, Paper Dolls and Million Miles Away.
Outside, we hit the Side Bar, a reliable local which serves as a venue for meeting up before leaving for the inevitable house party. Uh, is there a big-ass international music festival taking place or what? From the sing-along with the local and outside talent happening in the living room, I think so.
High point so far: Casino El Camino for the best bloody mary and burger. My early-bird friends were also raving about Enter Shikari!
Low point: The two-hour wait to get into Peaches' lame DJ stint.
