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Chicago Tribune
Chicago Tribune
Lifestyle
Joseph Hernandez

Surprise: Saint Lou's Assembly, next door to Moneygun, opens without warning

March 21--Is there something in the water? First, The Northman's quiet weekend opening, and now, Saint Lou's Assembly, the latest concept restaurant from the 16" on Center group (owners of Dusek's, Punch House, Thalia Hall, and Longman Eagle), popped up out of nowhere today.

Straight off the also-secret opening of the group's bar, Moneygun (which opened two weeks ago to minimal fanfare and maximum surprise), Saint Lou's Assembly is an homage to the classic "meat-and-three" -- a meat course plus three side dishes found throughout the South. The chef? L's Jared Wentworth.

The cafeteria-style space (attached to Moneygun) seats 50; diners walk down a counter with a plastic tray and pick from a buffet. The concept is named after Louis D., the proprietor of a meat-packing plant called Monarch Provisions that opened in 1947 on Fulton and Sangamon.

Wentworth adds a Midwestern spin on the Southern meat-and-three with cafeteria-meets-steakhouse dishes, such as meatloaf Wellington ($18) and herb-crusted prime rib ($26). All prices include three sides; options range from green bean casserole to braised kale. Daily specials and rotisserie items round out the menu.

A few items star at lunch only (beef short rib pot pie, $14; fried chicken, $12). Desserts ($5) like pecan pie, bread pudding and chess pie are offered all day.

For drinks, expect draft beers, a rye sweet tea ($10) and a selection of boozy floats like the banana cognac (house-made banana soft drink, vanilla gelato and Hennessy, $10). A patio will offer additional seating, while a curbside pick-up for carryout orders is in the works. Saint Lou's is open seven days a week 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Saint Lou's Assembly, 664 W. Lake St., 312-600-0600, www.saintlouschicago.com

jbhernandez@chicagotribune.com

Twitter @joeybear85

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