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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Michael Segalov

Sunday with chef Tomos Parry: ‘The smell of seafood shacks reminds me of home’

Tomos Parry standing outside a restaurant, his arms folded, with a blue and white stripy apron on
‘I cant stand brunch, it’s too stressful’: Tomos Parry. Photograph: John Alex Maguire/REX/Shutterstock

Do you work? At Brat we’re open seven days a week – so it’s rota dependent. I like the feel of the restaurant on Sundays, though. We have an open kitchen so I soak up the vibe while I’m cooking. We tend to have lots of families sitting together on long tables, so even if I’m not with my wife and son I feel I’m part of someone else’s.

The perfect day off? I can’t stand brunch, it’s far too stressful. It’s poached eggs for me every morning. Days revolve around my son. We’ll walk around Hackney. No roast or pints, but sparkling wine and seafood. It’s nice bumping into other chefs on days off - you’re part of a community.

And if you’re alone? It’s straight out for a run. On my way back I’ll meet my friend Charlie to watch football. Inevitably we’ll end up having a few drinks later at Umut 2000, this great Turkish joint in walking distance from home.

A day trip? A meal at the River Café in west London, where I used to work, if we’re feeling affluent. My sister curates the children’s programme at Tate Modern, so we’ll often pop by there. Otherwise it’s a trip to Leigh-on-Sea – the smell of the seafood shacks reminds me of home.

Fond Sunday memories? Hungover from rubbish alcohol in the kitchens of north Wales, working underage cleaning mussels, cockles and oysters. Then I’d go home, eat mum’s roast and pass out. Sometimes we’d have sailing regattas in Anglesey, with food stalls and the community out, and dad on the lifeboat.

A quiet Sunday night? I’m on the phone to our fish buyers, getting updates on what will be landing and the weather. I have to make a decision about what we’ll be serving from Monday. It’s good to be so in touch with fishermen. It’s easy to get caught up in our day to day life. You can forget where everything comes from.

Tomos Parry is owner and chef of Michelin-starred Brat

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