Mom started our family's Sunday traditions long before brunch became a popular way to while away the day. She cites a thin hardcover cookbook, "Gourmet International Pancakes Waffles" (1970) as the source. At 85, she still fires up the waffle iron and the crepe pan on a regular basis. In between, veggie-stuffed omelets, pepper-laced frittatas and steamy hot cereals feature in the breakfast-is-our-favorite-meal rotation.
This summer, our Sunday breakfasts at home draw heavily on the herbs overflowing in the garden. Especially the terrific crop of fresh basil varieties _ Genovese, common, dark opal and sweet Thai _ planted so I have a supply for plenty of Caprese salads. Eager to experience this heavenly combination of tomatoes, basil and fresh mozzarella all day long, I combine those elements with velvety scrambled eggs.
Adding cream to eggs before scrambling renders them rich and guarantees moistness. I use half-and-half or milk if that's all that I have in the house. Sour cream (or creme fraiche) might just be my favorite addition because its tang cuts the richness a tad.
For perfectly scrambled eggs, have all the ingredients pulled together by the stove before you start cooking. Select the right-size pan _ a 10-inch skillet works well for 6 to 8 eggs. Use a smaller pan for fewer eggs. If the skillet is too large, the eggs will spread too much and they'll overcook quickly. Nonstick pans make for easy cleanup and require less fat.
Heat the empty pan first over medium-high heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. Then reduce the heat to medium, add a light coating of oil or butter, and when that is hot, add the egg mixture. I like to use a silicon spatula to keep the eggs moving in the pan, flipping them and gently stirring to form large soft curds.
When the eggs are nearly set, fold in chopped ripe tomato, soft fresh mozzarella and plenty of basil. Don't overcook the eggs; rather, leave them soft-set for a luxurious texture. Serve with toasted French baguette slices and a side of fresh berries drizzled with a little balsamic glaze.
A recent meal at the casual Manhattan bistro, Jack's Wife Freda, shook up my egg repertoire. Its green herby version of shakshuka _ the Middle Eastern dish of eggs poached in red tomato sauce _ is stunning. The perfect dish to make for a special brunch for my herb gardener (husband).
This shakshuka starts with a green sauce. I used a small leek and some kale leaves (fresh Swiss chard or spinach leaves work here too) for the base of the sauce (which can be prepared in advance). While the eggs bake gently in the oven (easier than poaching), I brew the coffee, set the table and make a fruit salad.
My favorite breakfast spots, mom's or and elsewhere, lure me in with warm bread and muffin offerings. At home, I jazz up store-bought naan with a coating of good olive oil and garlic before crisping in a hot oven. A shower of fresh herbs and coarse salt makes them a breakfast temptation no one will resist.
