How do you make the perfect trainer? It’s a question designers the world over have surely pondered, and one many brands would pay big money for the answer to.
Arguably, the ideal sneaker could already be on your feet. Most people have a favourite trainer brand, and styles such as Nike’s Air Force 1, the Adidas Stan Smith and Vans Old Skool have all earned iconic status.
At New Balance, trainer perfection takes the form of the 990. “We feel the 990 series is a perfect blend of performance and lifestyle,” says Eric Vassall, New Balance’s senior product manager in charge of the 990 series.
The now legendary style premiered in 1982 following a four-year development process set in motion by New Balance’s research and development team, who challenged the designers to “develop the very best running shoe they were capable of”. The resulting shoe was released with an ambitious $100 price tag (making it the most expensive running shoe of the time; today the equivalent price would be $265 – or £210), and was an instant hit, quickly transcending the track to become a status symbol and style statement.
A technical running shoe with fashion credentials, New Balance had a hit on its hands – but the team didn’t rest on their laurels. The 990 is now in its eighth iteration – the 990v5 was released in the UK in May this year – and each new release has included technical and aesthetic updates, from the addition of shock-absorbing Abzorb cushioning on the 991 (released in 2001), to a new, utilitarian styling introduced on the 990v3 (which hit stores in 2012).
Unsurprisingly, additions to the series, known as 99X, are the result of years of hard work. “It’s not an easy shoe to update,” says Vassall. “I think part of it is, as you develop a shoe from one generation to the next, how do you not screw it up?”
Practically, it’s a real team effort, and collaboration is key. “Product marketing, design and development teams work very closely together, which allows us to share ideas, and the latest technologies and capabilities,” says Vassall. “Our inspiration is driven by both internal and external forces,” he adds. “Internally we look at what’s going on in our other categories to see what’s hitting the mark on the technology front, and how we can apply them to the 990 series. From an external point of view we are constantly shopping the global market; over the last two years our team has toured both Europe and Asia to vet trends and cultural changes that will help influence the design and development of the 990 model.”
With so many stakeholders involved, the process isn’t always an easy one. “There is pulling and pushing in terms of how we’re going to do certain things,” says Vassall. “During the initial briefing process we encourage friction from all disciplines because we all want to make the best product. It is a challenge, but at the end of the day everybody is going after the same goal.”
Taking the shoe from the 990v4 to the 990v5 – a particularly tricky challenge according to Vassall, as the V4 “went over really, really well” – New Balance upgraded the sock liner to Ortholite for a better underfoot feel, added a TPU power strap for increased support in the upper (a nod back to the 990v2 which was released back in 1998), included premium jewel embellishments on the tongue and foxing, and generally streamlined the design. But when it comes to the 99X series, some things are sacred, and Vassall says that New Balance is careful to protect the integrity of its signature shoe. “We have to be aware of what’s going on in sneaker culture to understand trends, but the 990 grey is the staple and will continue to be the backbone for the model,” he says. “We have a loyal cult following for the series and those consumers know when you are authentic or not.”
There’s no denying that the 990 is an iconic trainer, but what is it about the series that’s inspired such long-lasting success?
Its timeless design, technical prowess and broad appeal are all surely contributing factors – New Balance’s marketing campaign for the 990v5 played on the latter with the tagline “Worn by supermodels in London and dads in Ohio”. But when asked to pinpoint the essence of the 990, Vassall doesn’t hesitate. “It exudes craftsmanship to the fullest”, he says of the trainer – which is still handmade by skilled craftspeople in the USA. “The shoe just embodies a lot of what New Balance stands for.”
New Balance’s 990v5 are available at the New Balance London flagship store or newbalance.co.uk
