Swedish fashion is doing better than ever. A recent report from the Swedish Fashion Council shows that the total fashion export increased by 17.3% in 2014, and by as much as 40% between 2011 and 2014. So what is it that makes people crazy about Swedish design?
According to Elin Frendberg, CEO of the Swedish Fashion Council, the current popular global aesthetic, which embraces simple, androgynous, sophisticated and functional fashion, favours Swedish designers. “Sweden is a small country and we have to stay flexible and open towards the rest of the world,” Frendberg says. “As a result, I believe that Swedish designers are constantly looking for new, modern and post-materialistic consumers who are tired of throwaway fashion. In Sweden we see lots of exciting new business models where designers are starting to rent out their clothes, for instance.”
Sweden: at the forefront of sustainable fashion
Filippa K is one of the leaders when it comes to alternative fashion models. The retailer hires out clothes from its runway collection for a limited period that are then returned to the shop.
Clothes from Uniforms for the Dedicated come in a bag – “the Rag Bag” – that consumers can fill with secondhand clothes and return to the brand free of charge for recycling.
Lånegarderoben (The borrowed wardrobe) acts like a pop-up library where you can borrow and return clothes like books.
Swedish clothing giant H&M has introduced a number of initiatives, including its reduce, reuse and recycle strategy, which allows customers to drop off unwanted clothes at its stores.
“Swedish fashion brands set high standards. For Swedes, sustainable fashion is premium,” Frendberg says.
Brands that specialise in one area do particularly well. Footwear brand Eytys (a name that refers to Generation Y – people born in the 1980s and early 1990s), for example, produces three unisex ranges, which are sold at places such as Dover Street Market in London and Colette in Paris.
Similar examples are raincoat brand Stutterheim and eyewear brand Anna-Karin Karlsson, which are both large exporters.
Recent years have seen Swedish fashion talents such as Dagmar, Carin Wester, Ida Sjöstedt, Bea Szenfeld and Altewaisaome emerge and influence Swedish fashion. Now, a new generation of designers are about to take centre stage, according to Frendberg.
“This year, the Swedish Fashion Council has picked out Nand, F.A.S, Fewswa, Nebel, EA 4th, Lazoschmidl, Louise Körner and Séfr Séfr as emerging talent in their Swedish Fashion Talents programme,” she says. “Several of them call themselves unisex or agender, which I think is an interesting development in the fashion world in general. Just look at the new Gucci man that Alessandro Michele [the brand’s creative director] presented last year. It was all about bows, flounces, platform shoes and sandals.”
Rising stars of Swedish fashion
So who are the big names in Swedish fashion? Here are seven designers and brands expected to make a lot of noise during 2016.
Ida Klamborn
Made her first collection for S/S 2013 and has since gained lots of attention for her graphic prints and straight silhouettes. Famous Swedish artist Seinabo Sey is a big fan and, recently, Lady Gaga’s stylist got in touch.
Carin Rodebjer
Swedish designer based in New York and represented in more than 20 countries. Rodebjer is known for its slouchy suits and sets, drapey caftans and easy-to-wear dresses and kimonos. Feminism is a big inspiration for Carin, who often bases her collection on a strong woman in history.
Giorgi Rostiashvili
Was selected as the up and coming designer by Swedish Elle during 2015 and has featured heavily in fashion editorials. He is bound for success during 2016. Many are now looking forward to his show during Stockholm fashion week.
Ann-Sofie Back
Ann-Sofie Back is known for making fashion with attitude. During last year’s fashion week in Stockholm she gathered journalists only to say: “I decided to go on a holiday instead of joining you at Stockholm Fashion Week this time.” Let’s see what she cooks up this year!
Johan Lindeberg
Johan Lindeberg is finally back in business at J. Lindeberg, the brand he started in 1996. He will take on the role as a creative consultant during 2016, after leaving BLK DNM.
Amaze Sthlm
Founded by stylist Nicole Walker and artist Cornelia Blom, Amaze is an experimental arena for the freshest Swedish fashion talent, and a cutting-edge addition to Stockholm Fashion Week.
Sofie, Pernilla and Jennifer Elvestedt
Sisters Sofie, Pernilla and Jennifer founded Minimarket in 2006. Last year saw an interesting twist on their collection for ss16: the models in bare, unshaved legs wore clothes inspired by traditional Swedish “dansband” music groups, mixed with a touch of Americana.
Find out more about Swedish fashion and where to find those skinny jeans beloved by Swedes.
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