Amy Faulkner grew up in Wisconsin and studied law in San Diego before moving to St. Petersburg with her husband five years ago, where she is now a yoga instructor with Body Electric Company. The couple have three young daughters and live in Shore Acres, just north of downtown St. Petersburg. If it’s in town and worth doing, she knows about it.
The basics
St. Pete, as we call it, has always had a reputation for being a great place to live, and since we moved here five years ago, it just keeps getting better and better. The town has long been popular with retirees and “snowbirds” – the older folk who come down for the winter – but there’s also been a real upsurge in young families in the past decade. Living here feels a lot like being on an island, because it’s forded by two bridges north and south. The north takes you to the city of Tampa; the south is the known as the “sunshine skyway” and heads towards Sarasota. Drive along either and you’re surrounded by glittering blue water. Today St. Pete is a thriving, vibrant city with a small, beach town feel – full of an eclectic mix of people enjoying year-round sunshine and warm weather.
Soak up some art
There’s just so much going on here and most of the action tends to revolve around the waterfront and the historic downtown district behind it. The Dalí Museum first opened here in 1982, but it moved to a new, grander building four years ago, which has been a big boost to the art scene. It contains the largest collection of his work outside Figueras, but it’s not just about the collection – there’s always something different happening in there like arts and crafts, and storytimes for kids. Having said that, my favourite culture fix is actually a little further up the waterfront. The Chihuly Collection in the Morean Arts Center houses the permanent collection of Dale Chihuly’s crazy, mindblowing glass sculptures. The colours and shapes are just so intense.
The city’s galleries and warehouses open their doors every second Saturday of the month for the Art Walk, where you’re invited in for a glass of wine and a look at the latest work. The annual arts festival just took place and is always full of artists and craftspeople selling paintings, metalwork, ceramics and jewellery.
Escape to the beach
If we’re going to the beach then we usually head for Pass-a-Grille – a lovely little beach town close by on the Gulf side. Beyond that is Fort de Soto, a fantastic, quiet sandy beach, which you reach by walking through palm hammocks and mangroves. We camp down there with the girls once a year. I’ve not been there yet but Caladesi Island is a state park on the Gulf off Clearwater with quite a reputation. It’s a romantic spot you can only reach by boat so when we next get a babysitter it’s top of the list.
Take a yoga class
There’s no doubting its popularity across the world at the moment, but few places have taken to yoga like Florida – and with all the great food and wine around you’ve got to keep in shape. The St. Petersburg waterfront area of is great for long walks, and after I had my kids I used to go to the “baby boot camps” in Vinoy Park, but when it comes to toning up in St. Pete you can’t go past dropping into one of the city’s many great yoga studios.
Do something different
If you like cars then you have to be here for the Indycar grand prix in March. They block off all the streets on the downtown waterfront for the race and it’s super loud. The Tampa Bay Blues festival in Vinoy Park pulls in lots of people every April, too. There’s always something going on in Vinoy Park. Movies In The Park is my personal favourite. After the sun sets we pack a cooler and blanket, find a space and enjoy an old classic or a kids’ favourite.
Keep the kids happy
One thing you have to do if you have kids is take the Pirate Ship. It’s a full-blown pirate ship that sails out of John’s Pass village and boardwalk, and cruises up and down the Intercoastal for a couple of hours. The crew dresses up and entertains the kids and there’s a bar to keep the parents happy, too. We do it every year and everyone has a swashbuckling time.
Pick a restaurant
St. Pete is home to some damn fine restaurants. My favourite spots are the Farmtable Kitchen, which is above a high-end grocery store in the Sundials, a shopping centre in St. Pete. They do a thing called the Farmtable Experience, which is an incredible eight course tasting menu held in a small private room. Il Ritorno is the best local Italian restaurant, serving fresh pasta – and you have to try the grilled octopus. Bricks and Mortar Kitchen and Wine is a great new place, I’d never had oxtail before I went there and it was wonderful.
Raise a glass
The craft beer scene has blown up here in recent years. My favourite is the Ale & The Witch, which is located in a big courtyard. There are loads of tables outside and a BBQ spot called the Witches Den. If we want to show friends a classy time we head for the Canopy, a smart rooftop bar at the Birchwood Hotel that overlooks the marina and the bay. The balcony is made of glass so you have unobstructed views below.
Check out some music
If you like music then Ruby’s Elixir has a band every single night and there’s a great local act if you can catch them, The Betty Fox Band, fronted by a singer with a great old school soul voice. Another great regular monthly event is “first Friday”, when the city closes off part of Central Avenue, and puts up a stage for bands – everyone just parties in the street. It’s great fun but you need some stamina.
Have a laid-back brunch
For a lazy brunch the morning after the night before, I head for Gastro Lounge, where you can pick up a great bloody mary with a cheeseburger slider. If you’re in the mood for a few more, The Oyster Bar has a set-up where you can mix your own, but be warned – you can pour yourself as many as you can handle.
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- This article was amended on 17 May 2016. An earlier version said Il Ritorna served pizza.
- This article was amended on 18 May 2016 to make it clear the Dalí Museum first opened in 1982. It moved to a new building in 2011.