My latest review of Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin was in 2014, four years before the Michelin Guide arrived in Bangkok and gave this pioneer of molecular Thai cuisine a star.
The restaurant follows the success of Kiin Kiin, a Michelin-starred dining establishment in Copenhagen, Denmark, the brainchild of Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen and his Thai partner Lertchai Treetawatchaiwong.
The style of cuisine, just like that of the original Copenhagen eatery, is developed from artistic and scientific experiments within the Thai culinary context. The ingredients, flavour and aromas are unquestionably Thai. But the presentation, texture and style are what I once called "futuristic and out of this world".
It's been almost eight years since and molecular techniques have now become a modern-day kitchen norm.
Yet whether it's for a new experience or simply a trustworthy meal, prior to or after the Michelin rating, a visit to Sra Bua for me is always fun-filled and memorable.
Recently I was told by a good friend, who's a regular there, that the current seasonal menu was among the tastiest she's had in years. I hardly thought twice before checking it out.
The menu, dubbed Summer Journey, was launched in April but still running now due to its popularity and the pandemic.
Available until Nov 30, the Summer Journey menu costs 1,850 baht per person for a four-course set; 2,600 baht per person for a six-course set; and 3,200 baht per person for an eight-course set.
Upon arrival, all guests are treated to a warm welcome drink of lemongrass-pandanus tea followed by a parade of fun-filled amuse bouche of local snacks and street food.
The eight-item assortment -- every single one of them impressively delicious -- included a soft meringue with tom kha flavour; spiced puffed rice in a magic bag; grilled aubergine with sesame and shrimp; pomelo salad with salted egg yolk and crab roe; mushroom shot with ricotta-stuffed morel; Thai ceviche with passion fruit espuma; soy caviar with guacamole and wasabi; and som tam gai yang, a creative display of classic Thai food duo: green papaya salad and grilled chicken, in a bite.
If it wasn't for the Covid-19 social distancing mandate, these nibbles would be offered at the lounging area so the guests could casually munch and mingle before proceeding to dinner. Now they are served at the guests table prior to the meal, some with a chef's demonstration.
Promptly following was the first course, described as "tom yum with cilantro waffles and relish based on dried codfish with lime leaf marinade".
It's a four-part assembly dish, comprising a bubbling tom yum soup in siphon glass pot, a house-made prawn cracker with sweet ebi and bisque mayo; a cilantro waffle with dried cod fish salsa; and a DIY instant noodles.
One might say this accumulation was more like a gastronomic frill than a sublime palate-pleaser. But they would change their mind once they eat it.
Every element in the course proved to have been skilfully crafted according to ingenious culinary wisdom and complemented one another marvellously.
The pungency of the meal quickly accelerated through the second course: fluffy smoked salmon with mango salad.
The dish took its cue from the popular pla duk fu. But instead of using minced local catfish (pla duk), the chef opts for the smoked Norwegian salmon, which gives a deeper flavour and more reddish colour contrast to the green salad.
The real highlight of the dish, however, lies in the flavourful dressing, which is prepared before the guest. A mixture of lime juice, fish sauce, palm sugar, shallots, mint, coriander and fresh chillies, this zesty icon of Thai taste profile together with pop-in-the-mouth salmon roe promised to reawaken even the most callous taste buds.
Buttered miso with flan and oyster accompanied by æbleskiver (Danish pancake) arrived next.
It is one of my most favourite dishes featuring poached French oysters with super soft egg custard, pickled radish and frothy sauce made with Japanese soy bean paste and butter.
I recommend that you wipe clean the super delicious sauce off the plate with the pancake, which exhibited a crusty exterior and fluffy soft buttery centre, and you'll be transferred to culinary paradise.
Thai-styled piquancy resumed again in the fourth course of baked crab and asparagus with red curry soufflé in banana leaf packet.
The souffle, a silky smooth mixture of minced pla krai (spotted knifefish) and red curry paste, revealed heaps of cotton-like white crabmeat seethed with melinjo leaves (bai liang). The leaves, native to the southern Thai coast, provided to the peppery curry a nuttier taste, while a garnish of white asparagus foam gave a mild sweet finish to it.
Sra Bua's depiction of foie gras in Thai cuisine is second to none in town.
A neat piece of firm French foie gras, pan-seared until the skin developed a crusty finish and tightly encased the silky innards, was served on a bed of spiced pear and tamarind chutney with lychee foam garnish. Lending a nice complementing contrast to the dish was a duck confit dumpling with chilli vinegar sauce.
Representing the main course of the summer menu is beef short ribs massaman with sunchokes.
A thick cut of the Australian beef was slow-cooked for 48 hours until tender yet retaining its succulent chew. It was served in sizeable cubes with creamy massaman curry sauce, together with sunchoke prepared in three styles: mashed, baked and deep-fried, and steamed jasmine rice.
The eight-course dinner (a total of 20 platters) offered to a fine ending with a pre-dessert of pineapple tartar with coconut, turmeric, Thai herbs and rum snow, which nicely helped cleanse our palate.
It was followed by an Earl Grey tea ice cream with candied kaffir lime and chocolate crumbles, an uncommon but delectable combination.
I usually couldn't care less about Petite Fours at other restaurants. But the offerings here seemed too astonishing to be missed. Mimicking chef Henrik's dream-like journey on a Thai beach, they are amusingly represented by a lit cigarette, a few pearls, a wild mushroom and a cloud.
Options of juice pairing (390-790 baht) and wine pairing (1,200-2,300 baht) are also available.
The pairing juice features house-crafted concoctions such as apple and celery, ginger lemonade, passion fruit and yuzu, lychee and mint and tamarind and lemongrass.
A wide selection of pairing wines from a variety of countries also are available.
During my visit, the convivial restaurant was attended by a very attentive, cordial and ever-smiling staff. Reservations are a must.
- Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin
- Siam Kempinski hotel
- Rama I Road
- Call 02-162-9000
- Open Thursday to Sunday, for lunch and dinner
- Park at the hotel’s car park
- Most credit cards accepted
