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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Lydia Swinscoe

Spean Lodge: this charming B&B is Scotland’s best-kept secret

Spean Lodge is the sort of place you check into, immediately feel at home, and never want to leave. Whether that’s down to the carefully redesigned interiors featuring deep, luxurious sofas and expertly curated local art, or the handful of log fires, it’s hard to tell. Yet one reason is certain, Spean Lodge wouldn’t have the same tranquil vibe and allure without the care and attention to detail of its new owner Paul Hackett.

Having recently returned to his homeland after two decades of London living, Paul made a name for himself as an award-winning war and news photo journalist covering conflicts and natural disasters from Syria to Mozambique. For a time he was even at the forefront of the royal family photography circuit snapping joyous images of the late Queen Elizabeth II and Kate Middleton on her wedding day.

Fitting then that his new venture, Spean Lodge, has royal connections too. One of the household's most interesting ex-residents, Lila Davy, became one of the highest ranking senior female officers in the British Army and in 1917 was chaperone to Princess Mary during a month-long tour behind allied lines in France.

(Spean Lodge)

Where?

Set in a two-acre garden, originally groomed by a landscaper from London’s Kew Gardens, the lodge sits on the bank of River Spean right next to Spean Bridge. The village’s rail station (a five-minute stroll from the lodge) allows for seamless travel across the whole of the Highlands. It’s all the more appealing since the high-shine Caledonian Sleeper train trundles into the station daily at 9.38am.

Londoners in particular will adore the ease of hopping onto the iconic train at Euston, catching daybreak from the breakfast carriage, and arriving at Spean Lodge rested and ready to make the most of the day.

The dramatic landscapes and picturesque pools of the Isle of Skye are a mere one hour and a half drive away, while Ben Nevis, Steall Waterfall (the UK’s second highest peak), and romantic Glencoe are all equidistant to the lodge. Travellers arriving by train from London can still happily head out to explore, picking up walking trails directly from the lodge’s ornately tiled porch straight into the rugged countryside, which is all the more dramatic out of season.

It’s all in the details (Spean Lodge)

Style

Tasteful yet homey. While the historic features of the lodge remain, interiors have been refreshed with Lucie Annabel wallpaper and gorgeous shades of Little Greene paint — think forest greens, deep blues, and warming burgundies, and of course, there’s a nod to Scotland with a smattering of modern tartan. Inspiring local photography also plays a key part in the lodge’s updated decor, with Scot David Gillanders’ atmospheric large-scale black and white wet plate photography, and Catrìona Reid’s moody ink and oil Scottish landscapes gracing the period property’s walls.

Small thoughtful touches, including coffee table books, wooden chess tables, as well as board games, all add to the homely feel but one of the main draws is the huge communal lounge on the second floor. With a large marble fireplace, open log fire, cosy sofas, and whimsical window seating, it’s the ideal place to while away an evening after a strenuous hike. And style is certainly not limited to the interiors, outside guests will find giant redwoods, ancient cedar and copper beech trees, and an abundance of fragrant Douglas fir, creating the most idyllic setting whatever the season.

Which room?

Each of the three bedrooms and both self-contained apartments have en suite bathrooms and the usual amenities, but the Well Red Room overlooking the garden has a somewhat mystical feel. Painted in a fabulous shade of crimson with accents of green (including the comfiest throw), the room becomes magical on sunny afternoons when beams of light shine prettily through the 12 over 12 sash windows.

One of the three bedrooms (Spean Lodge)

The large bed and pure silence of the place guarantee the perfect night's sleep. Families will undoubtedly love the two self-contained apartments set in their very own wing of the lodge. Both come with private entrances, lounges, and an open fire or log-burning stove and dogs are welcome in the ‘Wee Apartment’.

Spean Lodge isn’t short of cosy communal areas (Spean lodge)

Food & Drink

Breakfast is included with room rates (aside from the two apartments which are self-catered) which guests are invited to enjoy in the expansive downstairs dining room. The lodge’s breakfast menu includes a hearty home-cooked Scottish breakfast with all of the usual elements as well as white pudding and potato scones. Or there’s porridge, cereals, and fruit on offer for anyone wanting something a tad lighter.

For special occasions, it’s worth booking a table at the nearby Inverlochy Castle where a nightly five-course dining extravaganza of locally sourced Scottish produce is turned into morish creative dishes overseen by two Michelin star chef Michel Roux Jr.

Glencoe, just 40 minutes from the Lodge (Spean Lodge)

Extracurricular

Nevis Range is just a stone’s throw away where holidaymakers and hikers alike can either climb the mighty mountain of Ben Nevis or take the mountain gondola to the top of Aonach Mor for country views that span miles and a closer look at the mighty Ben from a different perspective. During winter it’s even possible to ski or sled since the range offers 20km of slopes for all abilities.

Best For…

Embracing nature. Surrounded by some of the UK’s most spectacular scenery, Spean Lodge will wow countryside-loving couples, hikers, mountaineers, and anyone obsessed with a cold water dip. Adventuring families won’t want to leave either of the comfortable apartments.

Details

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