For the giddy heights of grilled slabs of boutique meat, and all the fancy frills that go with them, the Penthouse Grill takes some beating.
Designed by the Bangkok studio of AvroKO of New York which imagined a peripatetic kleptomaniac titan’s penthouse, the Grill anchors food and beverage offerings across three floors (34-36) of rooms, doorways, passages and stairs leading to various voguish bars that intermittently showcase du jour DJ talents and musical acts, all capped by a breath-taking rooftop terrace.
With an antique BMW motorbike parked at its entrance, the gala restaurant’s décor features gold and sandy tones, an intricate walnut veneer ceiling, creamy Carrara marble counters, rok fah wood flooring, and provocative displays of vintage collectables.
Evoking visions of the state room of some VIP hospitality zeppelin, plush curved banquets nestle tables that swirl around the edges of the widescreen window-enclosed captain’s bridge-like vantage scoping the city’s billion pinpricks of light. More tables along a north-facing corridor are cosy and quiet, an enclosed chef’s table yet more so, while another sprinkling of tables grace a somehow cool even on a sticky night glass-walled terrace that faces the outsize golden orb crowning the Krungsri building like some looming spectre from a Superman movie.
The open kitchen - with industrial strength extractor fans and glass frontage containing the fiery flurries of activities around the state-of-the-art grill - lends a visceral vibrancy to the ambiance.
True to the grill + bar spirit, Canadian Chef de Cuisine head chefDAndrew Dickie’s 35-item menu features steakhouse favourites, starring uber-prime beef imported from the US, Australia and Japan.
Signature starters include tangy Yellowfin Tuna (620) and Beef (690) tartars. The former with pine nuts, capers ,wasabi, and vegetable crudités, the latter with US prime tenderloin, cornichons (pickled cucumber), Dijon mustard, Worcester, Tabasco, mayo, capers. Toy soldiers of toasted rye bread counter the succulent zing with soft crunch.
Another sumptuous seafood entrée, actually a main but popular as a sharing appetizer, is Hokkaido Scallops (6pcs) (1,275), phat hockey pucks of smoky seafood simply enhanced with Worcester sauce, lemon, tomato concassé and balsamic. Moreover, the Fines de Claire oysters (690) with lemon and mignonette are beyond reproach.
Conversely, for a full-frontal fix of umami meatiness, sink your teeth into Bone Marrow (690), served in the bone, blanched then baked and seasoned with salt & pepper. Slices of toasted rye bread with truffle butter can be used for leverage.
These and nine other classic grill appetizers presage the main event turf ‘n’ surf steaks etc. The simple choice is between ridiculously tender mild in flavour Prime corn-fed USA Tenderloin (180g/250g-1,650/2,250), or chewier but tastier Prime corn-fed USA striploin (220g-1,650). But there are at least six other varieties. Selections are basted with wagyu beef dripping on the grill which helps to make them so insanely succulent and delicious.
Condiments include rock salt and English, Dijon and grain mustard. Or if you prefer various chili preparations. Sauces (25) range chimichurri, tartar, béarnaise, red wine, green peppercorn, mushroom, all excellent but is it a crime to slather even gourmet homemade sauce onto such sumptuous meat?
Besides beef, there are lamb chops, a burger, BBQ short ribs, Thai-style chicken, and Berkshire Pork Chop from the redoubtable Sloane’s.
You can surf ‘n’ turf together with Prime tenderloin and Canadian lobster. Seafood selections star Jumbo Tiger Prawns, Snowfish, Yellow Fin Tuna, Octopus and Salmon, so no one need feel corralled into a cow pen.
Those shunning steak who choose instead King Crab Tagliatelle (1,450) with lemon, spring onion, olive oil, might just have the tastiest dish of all.
But home-made potato gnocchi (720) black truffle, mixed mushrooms, leeks, brown butter, will also leave any vegetarians in the party feeling pretty smug.
Desserts are the preserve of Park Hyatt Bangkok’s highly creative pastry chef Kevin Lee. His cheesecake, for instance, is deconstructed into separate islands of firm yoghurt, mango and lemon cheesecake filling with flaky pastry sticks and grapes for clean contrast on the side.
The Grill is open for lunch from noon to 2.30pm and dinner from 6pm with last orders at 10.30pm.
Bars: 5.30pm – last order at midnight.
THE PENTHOUSE GRILL & BAR
34th-36th Floor, Park Hyatt Bangkok Hotel. Central Embassy. Ploenchit Road. Tel. 02 011 7480. Email: bkph.penthouse.reservation@hyatt.com.
