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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK

Singapore’s favourite flavours

Family enjoying street food outdoors, Singapore
Where you eat in Singapore depends on who you ask, but with one of the most vibrant food cultures in Asia there’s very little chance you’ll be disappointed. Photograph: Alex Soh

One of Singapore’s most popular English phrases is: “Have you eaten?” In truth, it’s more of a greeting than a question, somewhat similar to, “How do you do?” The idiom does, however, help to illustrate just how significant food is to the national identity.

The multi-ethnic makeup of Singapore ensures the presence of a variety of cuisines — Chinese, Malay and Indian, each with dozens of regional variations — while its proximity to other south-east Asian countries broadens the national palate.

Singapore does have its signature dishes, including chicken rice, chilli crab, bak kut teh (pork rib broth), char kway teow (stir-fired rice cake strips) and hokkien mee (stir-fried noodles with egg, pork, prawns and squid). Nasi lemak (rice cooked in coconut milk), beef rendang, mee goreng and mee rebus (fried noodles) are among the favourite Malay dishes. Indian cuisine includes roti prata (pancake filled with meat or veg), biryani (rice mixed with meat or veg), and the signature fish head curry, only found in Singapore.

So where should you eat in Singapore? That depends on whom you ask. If you ask five Singaporeans for the best place to eat black pepper crab, you’re likely to get five different answers. So, how do the locals choose the great little restaurants and food stalls to which they are so utterly devoted?

Word of Mouth
Traditionally, food news travels by word of mouth. Someone “discovers” a fried carrot cake stall, tells her friends and co-workers, who tell their friends and family, and the next thing you know, there’s a 20-person queue for lunchtime carrot cake. In that spirit, here are several favourites popularised by word of mouth.

Market eating in Singapore
Singapore’s bustling markets are a great place to grab a quick bite.

Enjoy a two-dollar (£1) bowl of spicy Laksa cooked over charcoal at Sungei Road Trishaw Laksa on Jalan Berseh. At Wah Kee Prawn Noodles in the Pek Kio Market, tuck in to big, fresh prawns swimming in savoury broth.

For Halal dishes, stop by the Geylang Serai Market and try egg thosai with dhal from G S Oli Thosai and Food Stall, or nasi padang (rice and your choice of assorted spicy dishes — just point to what you want) at Sinar Pagi Nasi Padang.

Peranakan cuisine is a blend of Chinese and Malay cultures, reflecting the best of both worlds and is a “must eat” for any visitor to Singapore. Local chef Malcolm Lee offers a modern take on Peranakan dishes at his Candlenut restaurant.

Digital menu
An increasing number of Singaporeans spread their word-of-mouth recommendations through the digital media, which means anyone can access information that was once the exclusive province of food-loving Singaporeans.

For excellent on-the-go insight into the island’s hippest eateries, download the Burpple app, a cross between Instagram and Pinterest, and peruse the inspired musings of tastemaker Veronica Phua.

Despite the name, the person behind ladyironchef.com is a man who dishes out plenty of food for thought — particularly on the subject of Singapore’s restaurants. And the popular hungrygowhere.com offers a straightforward approach to reviews and recommendations.

Regardless of how you get your information, be sure to explore the food courts and hawker centres located all over the island. This is where Singaporeans from all walks of life meet, eat and greet; a quintessential Singaporean experience that perfectly reflects this island’s meeting of cultures.

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