When Cartier precedes the name of a new model with the word Privé, it is worth paying attention. This is the brand’s way of identifying its high-end, usually complicated watches, made in limited series and targeted to collectors. The new tonneau shaped Skeleton Dual Time Zone is the latest Privé piece, set to be introduced at the upcoming Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, and it is pure Cartier for lovers of the maison’s distinctive style. First, it falls into the category of what Cartier refers to as “shaped” watches – anything out of round. The tonneau, or barrel shape, was originally designed to better fit the wrist, and Cartier introduced its first one in 1906. The new Skeleton Dual Time Zone is inspired by an evolution of that model, the Tonneau XL dual time zone, with two separate mechanisms – one for the home time and one for the second time zone. The new model is a high watchmaking evolution: it has a new movement, a single mechanism that drives both time zones on two separate dials on the front of the watch.
The new caliber 9919 MC is engineered so that the gear train is aligned in a vertical rather than in a circular arrangement. Fitting this new movement into the tonneau shape of the case was a complex endeavor. All the wheels of the gear train had to be aligned between 12 and 6 o’clock, and the rest of the components had to be fitted within the curved contours of the case.
The dial and bridges are openworked to provide a view of the mechanism, which the wearer can therefore watch in action when changing or setting the time. The second time zone is set by pressing on a sapphire cabochon-topped crown at 4 o’clock, in one-hour jumps. The Privé Skeleton Dual Time Zone is a limited edition of 100 pieces in each of platinum or rose gold. For those who want to take it to the next level, there is also a 20-piece platinum series that is set with baguette cut diamonds.
Cartier has also introduced a new single-time tonneau watch with hours and minutes, in a design that is true to its first tonneau model introduced in 1906. It has all of Cartier’s signature design codes, including Roman numerals, a railway track chapter ring, a cabochon on the winding crown, a leather strap and screws on the lugs – an update of the model introduced in 1910 was the first to have these “vis armurier” tube screws on the lugs. The bezel is formed from one block, with no overhang or breaks in the plane, and its contours and lugs melt into the watch case. Cartier is making l00 pieces of the watch in both red gold with a champagne colored dial or platinum with a silvered dial. They contain the manual-would caliber 1917 MC, made by Cartier.
