Do you remember the ABC movement a few years back, when we were all asking restaurants for anything but chardonnay (while still, typically, claiming that we liked chablis, which is, of course, made from the chardonnay grape). Now it seems that ABSB (anything but sauvignon blanc) would be more appropriate, although I know it has its die-hard fans.
Supermarkets love the stuff, because it sells by the crateload, but there are so many more interesting wines out there to enjoy, my latest enthusiasm being aligoté. Some of you may shudder at the thought, remembering the tooth-strippingly acidic wines of your youth, made drinkable only by adding a good slosh of cassis. These days, however, there are some very fine examples, as I was reminded recently by a young French importer, Léa Delacourcelle of Déjà Bu Wines.
Delacourcelle, who comes from Burgundy, had the misfortune to start her tiny business supplying restaurants at the end of last year, so she is now selling to the public directly. She, too, has a passion for aligoté. “You get some top producers playing with it, because there are fewer restrictions on how you can make it and you can have a bit of fun,” she says.
The wines are similar in character to chablis, but have a pure, thrilling, linear intensity to them. I particularly like the mouth-tingling fresh acidity of Cuvée des Quatre Terroirs 2018 (12%) from Domaine Chevrot – although, at £18.99, it is not inexpensive. The Château de Rougeon in today’s panel, however, is well worth a whirl, particularly if you can find some wine-loving neighbours to pitch in with you.
If you are into this kind of ultra-dry white, which perfectly suits lighter, summery food, you are spoilt for choice. France also offers muscadel and picpoul, Spain albariño (alvarinho in Portugal) and Austria peppery grüner veltliner, which goes with practically anything. Italy is awash with good-value whites, including (and perhaps unexpectedly) those from the warmer south of the country, such as falanghina, greco di tufo and Sicily’s carricante. Most Greek whites are as sharp and salty as feta, too – look out for assyrtiko from Santorini. Basically, where there is an island, there is a seafood-friendly white.
Four crisp, fresh whites that are not sauvignon blanc
Marques de Reinosa Rioja Tempranillo Blanco 2018 £8.95, Jeroboams, 12.5%. Tempranillo is normally a red wine, but this is a delicious, citrussy white version that would be lovely with simply cooked fish.
Poggio Civitelle Orvieto Classico 2018 £5.99, Lidl, 12.5%. A wonderfully versatile Italian white (made from trebbiano and grechetto) that rubs along with just about anything, from risotto to a pile of grilled chicken wings. Much more interesting than pinot grigio.
Morrisons The Best Grüner Veltliner 2018 £8.25, 12.5%. If you haven’t tried Austria’s intriguingly peppery grüner veltliner, you definitely should. It works well with lighter stir-fries and Asian-style salads.
Les Arénites Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine Château de Rougeon, 2018 £15.99, Déjà Bu Wines, 12%. A lovely touch of chablis-like creaminess, but with a real saltiness and minerality that you rarely find in chardonnay. Would be gorgeous with crab and any fresh shellfish.
• For more by Fiona Beckett, go to matchingfoodandwine.com
