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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Kate Faithfull-Williams

Secret beaches and incredible food: your perfect week in Wales

The view of the bay at Trellyn
The view of the bay at Trellyn Photograph: Trellyn Woodland, PR

Day one: hop in a time machine

Just over the English border, nestled on the bank of the River Wye, surrounded by dramatic tree-covered cliffs, lie the majestic ruins of 890-year-old Tintern Abbey. The best place to enjoy the view is from the Anchor Inn, preferably with the Welsh cheeseboard – ask for Perl Las, a creamy blue, and Black Bomber, a powerful mature cheddar.

On your way to Cardiff, stop off at Big Pit, the extraordinary coal mining museum 91 metres (300ft) beneath Blaenavon, or swing by the Roman Fortress and Baths in Caerleon to see one of the best preserved Roman sites in the UK.

Check into Hotel Indigo Cardiff, a boutique hotel in the city centre with rooms inspired by Wales’s industrial heritage. Then check out the varied roster at the Wales Millennium Centre, where current highlights include the Cabaret Supper Clwb, Matthew Bourne’s Romeo and Juliet, and Future Aleppo – a VR experience commissioned by the Welsh National Opera.

The ruins of Tintern Abbey, Monmouthshire, UKBWB9B4 The ruins of Tintern Abbey, Monmouthshire, UK
Tintern Abbey ruins. Photograph: Alistair Baird/Alamy
  • Tintern Abbey ruins

Day two: get on the water

The best way to see the city is on the water, so head to Cardiff Castle and jump on the boat from its back garden, Bute Park, to Cardiff Bay, taking in the glory of Brains Brewery and the Principality Stadium, home to the Welsh national rugby union team.

Next, stop off at Laugharne, about two hours away by car, to be inspired by Dylan Thomas’s boathouse on the Taf estuary, where he wrote part of Under Milk Wood.

It’s only another 25 minutes to the clifftop St Brides Spa Hotel, where if you’re lucky you’ll catch a glimpse of the seals and dolphins in Saundersfoot Bay below. For dinner, stroll along the golden sand to Coast, where chef Tom Hine uses local produce in dishes such as mackerel ceviche.

Day three: take a foodie tour

Sea views from Coast restaurant, Saundersfoot
Sea views from Coast restaurant, Saundersfoot Photograph: Owen Howells
  • Sea views from Coast restaurant, Saundersfoot

Set yourself up with a dip in the infinity pool at St Brides, followed by a detoxifying seaweed leaf wrap (that’s a luxurious spa treatment, not a burrito). Now, breakfast: try a full Welsh fry-up featuring cockles and laverbread.

Your next stop is Tenby, a postcard-perfect, pastel-hued Georgian peninsula town with sea on three sides, just 10 minutes away. Sample award-winning craft beer at artisan brewery Harbwr, then ask for the table in the massive stone fireplace at Plantagenet House, a 10th-century kitchen tucked away beside the National Trust’s Tudor Merchant’s House. The fresh local crab bisque and the harbour view from the ladies’ loo are both exquisite.

With a full belly, drive onwards to Trellyn Woodland, an outrageously gorgeous glamping site near the Pembrokeshire town of Haverfordwest. We’re talking yurts, sea views, campfires, stargazing and a real bed: you’ll sleep well tonight.

Day four: break Instagram

Don a wetsuit for some coasteering near St Davids
Don a wetsuit for some coasteering near St Davids Photograph: Visit Wales Image Centre/Visit Wales Image Centre / PR
  • Don a wetsuit for some coasteering near St Davids

Kick off with a casual #wokeuplikethis post from your cosy yurt, then get your coasteering kit on. St Davids claims to have invented coasteering in the 1980s, so this is the ultimate place to leap off a 10-metre cliff. Repeatedly. Because without the perfect shot, did it even happen?

The coastal way along Cardigan Bay is road-trip paradise, although if you’re an experienced equestrian you might want to take a break at Rheidol Riding Centre, four miles inland from Aberystwyth. Ride through peaceful country lanes, ancient mining tracks and, if you’re as brave as your horse, the River Rheidol.

Onwards to Portmeirion, the fantasy Italianate village that’s baffling and mindblowing in equal measures. Exotic gardens! The best gelato outside Rome! A riotous rainbow of architecture! Just go with it, and book yourself a four-poster bed at the Hotel Portmeirion. Rest up well before setting off to tackle the slopes of Snowdon.

Day five: get high

Lagoon at Adventure Parc Snowdonia
Lagoon at Adventure Parc Snowdonia Photograph: Surf Snowdonia, PR
  • Lagoon at Adventure Parc Snowdonia

Snowdon’s trails take around six hours to climb up and down (or two, if you take the mountain railway) and guides can help you choose the right route, according to your fitness, skill level, and the current conservation projects. Although it’s essential to play it safe and pack waterproofs, torch, whistle and a first aid kit, Snowdon is tame enough to have a cafe, Hafod Eryri, by the summit. You’ll earn that cake.

The view from the top is alternately described as “breathtaking” and “zero-visibility”. So, if the weather messes up your plans, don your wetsuit and embrace the rain at Adventure Parc Snowdonia, a surf lagoon ringed by mountains and forests, where artificial waves roll every 90 seconds. Stand-up paddleboarding is a more leisurely option, and your glamping pod is a short stroll away.

Snowdon Mountain Railway
Snowdon Mountain Railway. Photograph: Rixipix/Getty

Day six: be more random

After all that adrenaline, Anglesey is the answer. The island is famous for its quiet beaches, ancient Beaumaris Castle and its sea salt company. Halen Môn is a hidden gem, and the secret ingredient in Green & Black’s chocolate and Pipers Crisps. Even Barack Obama is a fan. Salt gets into spirits too – try saying “Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch”, the Anglesey village with the longest place name in the UK, after a shot of Jin Môr, the salty “gin of the sea”. Or just take your picture next to the extremely long railway station sign and retire to bed at the Anglesey Arms, overlooking the Menai Strait.

Day seven: discover your creativity

Unleash your imagination in Llandudno at Mostyn gallery, where an eclectic roster of workshops includes hot wax painting and macramé – could a plant pot hanger be any more 2019?

Keep the creative juices flowing at Techniquest, an hour down the road in Wrexham Glyndŵr University, for live science shows such as the Slime workshop (trust us) and more than 60 interactive experiments.

Make your last night one to remember and stay at Ruthin Castle hotel, where you can treat yourself to an intriguing mix of a hot stone massage and a medieval banquet. A truly majestic way to round off your memorable week in Wales.

Visit Wales
2019 is the Year of Discovery in Wales. Outdoor lover, thrill seeker, festivalgoer or heritage buff – or just wanting to discover a new passion? We’ve got you covered. For ideas and inspiration, go to visitwales.com

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