At the market, the best way to choose a watermelon is to look for the creamy yellow blush. As watermelon ripens the underside of the melon, that’s touching the ground, will change colour. This definitely doesn’t mean your watermelon is in any way rotten, instead it means it has been allowed to ripen in the sun. Also look for dull skin, a shiny watermelon has been harvested early. When whacked, the watermelon should make a hollow sound, a dull sound means it’s underripe. Watermelons do not ripen after harvest. Whatever its size, make sure it feels heavy.
Heirloom varieties come in an array of shapes and colours: the Champagne has orange flesh, Small Shining Light has nearly black skin, the Picnic has bright red flesh and forest green skin, the War Paint (Crimson Sweet) has deep red flesh and distinct, large stripes. The Moon and Stars watermelon, (which in the US was commercially produced in the early 20s, but after going out of fashion was thought to be extinct; is now available again) looks spectacular, with a round yellow moon and spotted stars against its dark green skin. Heirloom varieties will have seeds.
There has been a trend for seedless watermelons in Australian supermarkets, using a cross-breeding technique that produces sterile fruit – and those soft white seeds in the flesh. There’s a lot to be said for returning to eating seeded watermelons. For one, the seed itself is edible, delicious dried and roasted and high in nutritional value. Eating a watermelon with seeds allows access to all these beautiful heirloom varieties, and there’s joy in sitting in the garden, on the edge of a verandah, or the front step, spitting seeds into the grass.
We’re coming into the height of the watermelon season here in Australia, though they are available all year round, the winter growing season is in far northern Australia.
Mix strawberries and cubed watermelon together, to make a red fruit salad. Sprinkle the watermelon with rosewater and serve with labne. Serve in a savoury salad with feta and cucumber or, as we have here, do almost nothing at all to it. Salted chilli fruit is a Mexican street snack, and with watermelon, it makes a surprising, delicious combination. The salt, chilli, lime and the sweet hunks of watermelon simply eaten off the rind is one of my favourite things about summer.
Salted chilli watermelon
1 large watermelon
1 tbsp of sea salt
1 tbsp ground chilli
8 limes, cut into cheeks
With a cleaver or large knife, cut your watermelon in half. Cut each half into three wedges and each wedge into thick slices. Serve on a large platter with the salt, chilli and limes. Make sure everyone knows to dip their watermelon into the chilli and salt, or sprinkle each slice before serving. Squeeze lime generously over each piece and serve cold on a hot day. Serves enough for a party.
