After holidaymakers to traditional Mediterranean destinations have endured another summer of wildfires, queues and intense heat, visitors to one corner of the Austrian Alps could be forgiven for feeling rather pleased with themselves.
“We don’t bother with air-con up here,” says a local guide. “Temperatures during the day hit the high 20s or even the early 30s but at night we just open our windows and let the cool mountain air flood in.”
Welcome to Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis, a trio of villages in the mountains of the Tyrolean Oberland.
With more than 130 miles of pistes to hand, the region is already famed as a winter sports destination but it is becoming an increasingly seductive location for those seeking the high life in summer.
We — myself and my 16-year-old son, fresh from finishing his GCSEs and in need of a little time away from his screens — are staying at the five star Schlosshotel Fiss, a relaxed family-friendly hotel perched 1,436 metres above the valley floor.
We’re staying on a sun-kissed plateau higher than 1,345m Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain, but Alpine peaks tower high above us.
The area boasts miles upon miles of hiking trails and biking routes, as well as adventure parks, mountain lakes and adrenaline-filled zipline rides, all accessed by a series of cable cars which visitors use like a network of buses.
“We get a lot of Germans, Swiss and Dutch up here but more and more Brits are discovering us,” adds the guide. “I think people can’t take the sweltering temperatures in the Med anymore and want to go somewhere fresh and healthy — with nature on the doorstep.”
Where is it?
Most British visitors make their way to Schlosshotel Fiss after flying to Innsbruck Airport, which offers a spectacular entry point into the Alps. With no queues or delays, we felt like we’d arrived on a private jet. The hotel is then just an hour away by bus, taxi or via the hotel’s pick-up service.
Others touch down at Munich, Zurich or Salzburg airports, which are located two-and-a-half to three hours away.
The hotel is just a five-minute stroll to the cable cars, the ideal starting point for any mountain adventure (winter visitors can take advantage of the hotel’s ski-in, ski-out location, which allows guests to take a lift directly to the slopes).
Which room?
The hotel traces its origins to a hunting lodge and has 135 individually designed rooms and suites, blending alpine cosiness with refined elegance, with each featuring a terrace or balcony offering breathtaking views of the Tyrolean mountains.
It has been owned by the Domenig family since 1991. “I wanted to create a special place in a unique location,” says Bernadette Domenig.
Her daughter Suzanne now runs the show. “There’s definitely a human touch on show here,” says the hotel’s PR. “You can see Suzanne’s ‘handwriting’ wherever you go — she decides every detail of the decor — there’s a thoughtfulness and a harmony about the place.
“The hotel is sophisticated but it’s also cosy and timeless. Even when we’re full, there’s no sense of being crowded. There’s always a place to sit and relax and just enjoy being here.”
Family-friendly accommodations include pull-out sofas, separate sleeping areas, or spacious children’s rooms to ensure privacy and relaxation.
Food & drink
It’s fair to assume you won’t go hungry at Schlosshotel Fiss. It describes itself as a ‘gourmet hotel’ and dining is included in the price as part of the luxury board package.
Things kick-off at breakfast which features just about everything you can think of. Much of what’s on offer is locally sourced, including honey from the Zillertal bee farm in the lowlands of Tyrol (and the rare treat of honey from the comb).
After a morning in the mountains you can refuel at the lunch buffet (again extensive, with Tyrolean specialties), while from 3pm daily there’s the cake buffet (of course there is). Austrians have a very sweet tooth!
The star of the show is the multi-course dinner in the elegant hotel restaurant. Guests can also enjoy weekly themed buffets with dishes garnished with alpine herbs and berries. Highlights include seafood, desserts and the signature schnitzel night, and there’s also a dedicated children’s buffet.
Stay for a week and you’ll have a different dining experience every night.
You can accompany your meal with a little something from the hotel’s extensive wine collection of 800 bottles, including international fine wines, rare vintages, and Austrian classics.
Facilities
The hotel is designed to be family-friendly and it really shows. Its 5,000m² spa area is divided into two areas, for children and for adults.
Kids have their own waterpark, including a 48m double-loop slide as well as the special family spa where parents and children can enjoy the facilities together.
There’s daily supervised childcare in the kids’ club for ages two and over, and a media room for teenagers with a pool table, table football and Playstation consoles.
There’s also a bouldering wall, bike hire and the SHF youth programme, with its range of activities from trampoline sessions to hip-hop classes. Every night is movie night in the hotel’s own family cinema.
As for the adults? Early risers can join the morning yoga sessions by the lake while there’s a superb adults-only spa with steam rooms, sauna, hammam and aromatherapy rooms.
One of the benefits of a wellbeing hotel is the therapeutic treatments available, from facials to full body massages — a welcome antidote after an energetic day’s hiking or biking.
My personal favourite was the the 250m long swim-in-swim-out pool. Heated, of course, with the outdoor section framed by the mighty Samnaun mountains and the Ötztal Alps.
Eyes closed, my relaxation was broken only by a member of the hotel staff asking if I’d like an ice cream (obviously “yes”, even though I was still full after the cake buffet...)
Extracurricular
Struggling to get your teenager off their phone ? Why not jump off a mountain. We had a go at tandem paragliding — taking off from one of the peaks before soaring through the mountains and then gently floating down to the valley below. Exhilarating, spectacular and unforgettable in equal measure.
The Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis region is blessed with superb hiking trails, including a high altitude arts trail where sculptures by renowned artists can be admired alongside the wonderful views.
Parents may like to know that there’s a selection of mountain buggies available for them to borrow for free at the Schlosshotel reception.
The area is also a haven for mountain bikers of all abilities, with the cable cars equipped to transport bikes to the different courses.
Among the attractions on the hotel’s doorstep is the Summer Fun Park Fiss, which features the Fisser Flitzer (a 2.2 km long summer toboggan ride down the mountain) and the Fisser Flieger, a high speed zipline-type giant kite. (Austrians do seem to have a habit of flinging themselves off things).
A little further away is the Hög Adventure Park, where visitors can swim in the mountain lake or hire boats and paddle boards.
“Why not take a dip and cool down,” said the guide. “The water is surprisingly warm.” “Surprisingly cold,” was the teenager’s discovery after he jumped in.
Throughout the summer, the three villages play host to themed evenings like Lange Nacht in Serfaus, where every other Thursday between 7pm and 11 pm, musicians, jugglers and magicians perform while local farmers offer their homemade specialities and fresh produce from the region.
A top tip is get your hands on the Super Summer Card, a guest pass often included in your room price which allows users to enjoy multiple benefits in the region, including unlimited use of mountain lifts and hiking buses, as well as discounts on some of the area’s attractions.
Also, did I mention marmots? The cute furry rodents live in the mountains and can sometimes be seen feeding on herbs and grasses. We spotted one as we trundled above in a cable car. Paragliding and ziplining are all very well but spotting a marmot in the wild is a thrill all of its own.
Best for...
Laid-back luxury with a focus on family outdoors activities. And marmots.
The Details
Doubles from £456 in summer, £670 in winter. Book it here
