You don't have to be particularly well-healed to add Brasserie Cordonnier (Sukhumvit 11/1 Alley) to your shortlist of do-able diners. An adaptable palate, some disposable income, and a penchant for things Parisian are all that's required.
Partly channelling a Parisian ladies' shoemaker's workshop, the French outlet in Soho Hospitality's 5-strong portfolio is conceived by epicurean entrepreneur Rohit Sachdev to tear down the wall between the queen of cuisines and middle-class appetites.
"French food is still seen as being pretentious and pricey in Thailand but when you go to your neighbourhood brasserie in Paris, the manager knows you and you know the menu."
Brasserie Cordonnier's niche is fuss-free French food with a real Parisian feel. And with its hospitable width and height, de rigueur brass railings, modernist Belle Époque mirrors, bare wooden tables, faux fleur de lis tiles, shoemaker paraphernalia, and beckoning bar, it could indeed be Montparnasse.
Instrumental in executing the culinary vision is Executive Chef Clement Hernandez. He's almost exclusively worked in Michelin star restaurants since interning but recently rotated into "something more casual" for a sabbatical. Other key personnel are Mixologist Davide Sambo and Restaurant Manager Ines Labourdette.
Ensuring authenticity, all cream and butter is from France, making a difference to crème brûlée or fish meunière. Most vegetables are sourced locally, "but I don't compromise on the protein", mainly from France and Australia, but cherry duck and pork from Thailand's estimable Company B and Joe Sloane. To control costs, everything's homemade.
Ratatouille (280), one of Clement's creations, is served cold, the vegetables sautéed separately to avoid mushiness. Japanese tomatoes are prepared three ways (pickled with balsamic, sun-dried, fresh-seasoned), using the same ingredient being an Hernandez signature. Sunflower sprouts and caramelized seeds add crunch and herby flavour, completing effectively a rare French vegan dish. Mint completes the exceptional flavour profile.
French Onion Soup (280), virtually a full meal, is twisted to the local market with chicken stock, thickened with onion. Think lots of caramelized brown onion and melted emmental cheese (less salty than gruyere). Yum yum!
Foie gras terrine Cordonnier (560) dials the astringency of foie gras down and the creaminess up by blending the liver and fat, then sieving it. The robust chutney is created by reducing grapes with onion and vinegar. Added with fresh grape and toasted brioche, it's exactly what locals like.
Confit Pork Belly (420), over onion puree with red apple and baby potatoes, combines cooking techniques Clement learned in different countries. The apple-pork thing's English, onion puree, French. Together they're better.
Boeuf Bourguignon (520) is a French staple for a reason: it's delicious. The Aussie beef cheek is marinated in red wine then simmered slowly. Clement's time with two 3 Michelin star Burgundy chefs, Bernard Loiseau and Jean Michel Lorain, shines forth. BTW he's also worked with Michel and Alain Roux.
Pistachio crème brulee (200) is a Roux recipe but Clement makes his own insanely creamy, delectably nutty pistachio paste, irresistible beneath caramelly crust.
Each serving of Apple Tart Tatin (220) represents two red apples, slowly simmered in water, lemon juice, sugar, butter, fleur de sel, and vanilla syrup, so the apple is caramelised all through, yet not off-puttingly oily or saccharine. The puff pastry and homemade cinnamon ice cream are simply "parfait".
With 12 classifications, including pastas, vegetarian dishes and lots of fish, seafood and meats, Brasserie Cordonnier truly is welcoming, unintimidating, and exceedingly appetizing.
The glistening kitchen's on the mezzanine and the two floors above are evolving another as yet unspecified concept with direct access via an external iron staircase.
Open 6pm till midnight. Tel. 02 038 5113.
