SOUTHERN RENAISSANCE
Famous for its profound heat, the spice-rich aharn tai (southern Thai cuisine) has recently added a new depth of flavour to Thai cuisine, which was in danger of being defined by a limited range of dishes like phad Thai and tom yum goong.
Thanks to the increasing popularity of southern dishes among both domestic and international gourmands, the number of southern restaurants in Bangkok have multiplied in the past couple of years.
And these aren't just any second-rate khao gaeng shophouses, like the ones commonly associated with southern fare. At these restaurants, the meals are lovingly prepared and served in neat contemporary settings, if not necessarily fine dining style.
Among the city's best newcomers are Prai Raya (Sukhumvit 8), Na Chalong (Sukhumvit 24), Faiz's (Sukhumvit 53), Yoong Khao Hom (Chula Soi 9), Klang Suan (Sukhumvit 22) and Khua Kling Pak Sod (four outlets across the city).
But it wasn't until last month that one particular establishment brought world-class stardom to southern Thai cuisine. Sorn, which opened a year ago on Sukhumvit 26, was awarded a Michelin star for its home-cooked cuisine presented through a well-curated multi-course degustation menu. With every detail meticulously calculated to showcase the culinary heritage of the south, the restaurant has received much praise. Waiting lists are said to be months-long.
GOOD THINGS COME TO THOSE WHO WAIT
In an era when people are willing to spend astronomical amounts on treating themselves to fine food, it seems that no meal is too expensive for some. But money alone is not always enough to get you a seat at your restaurant of choice, according to restaurateurs.
At some eateries, diners have to be quick and in the know just to be able to get a table. More importantly, they need to have the luxury of time to spare. Sometimes that means waiting for hours and hours on the website or eight months on the list. Michelin-starred restaurants Gaggan, Mezzaluna, Sorn and street food joint Je Fai are notable examples.
A number of lower profile eateries have also reported extraordinarily long waiting lists in 2018. Ruan Jarung Thai in Ayutthaya is said to be taking reservations at least six months in advance, with all its tables now booked until mid-2019. Baan Nual Thai in Phra Nakhon district announced that its next available table will be in March next year. Meanwhile, it takes burger fans at least four months to try some of the house-made sandwiches that Homeburg on Sukhumvit 77 has to offer.
SOMETHING'S BREWING
Over the past several months, kombucha, the effervescent fermented tea made with symbiotic bacteria and yeast culture, has become a popular beverage in Bangkok.
The sweet fizzy drink, which can be infused with fruit or vegetables, is said to provide health benefits, as it contains enzymes, polyphenols and various organic acids. Thus health-conscious individuals from all walks of life can be seen trying to perfect their own kombucha concoctions.
The concept also goes well with the current seasonal gastronomic trend. It also allows chefs and mixologists to demonstrate their principles while offering diners a new refreshment alternative. Restaurants that include house-brewed kombucha on their menus include Gaa, Haoma, Ethos, Okura Prestige Bangkok's Elements and the Waldorf Astoria Bangkok's Front Room.
NORDIC LANDING
Bangkok regularly welcomes star-studded chefs from across the globe. And a number of well-established cooking professionals in Bangkok today are alumni of New Nordic kitchens. Yet, it was only this year that the city began to enjoy an illustrious culinary showcase of big name chefs from Nordic countries.
We recently welcomed world-famous Danish chef Mads Refslund, co-founder of two Michelin-starred Noma (ranked the World's Best Restaurant in 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2014) and owner of Michelin-starred MR, both in Denmark; chef Henrik Yde Andersen of Copenhagen's Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin; chef Kristian Baumann of Copenhagen's Michelin-starred Restaurant 108; chef Sayan Isaksson, Thai-born Swedish chef/patron of Michelin-starred Esperanto in Stockholm, Sweden; and chef Øyvind Naesheim of the much-acclaimed Kita Nordic izakaya in Stavanger, Norway.
Meanwhile, Bangkok has revealed its first Thai-inspired Nordic restaurant. Set up in the Waldorf Astoria Bangkok's Front Room by chef Rungthiwa "Fae" Chummongkhon, it introduces Bangkokians to cooking concepts that centre on innovative presentations of fresh local ingredients. It was one of the best-loved new eateries among food critics this year.
VEGAN INVASION
Many chefs in Bangkok today are turning towards plant-based cooking, not only at regular vegetarian restaurants but also fine dining establishments.
The success of vegan restaurants like Veganerie Concept, Broccoli Revolution, Ethos and Sustaina, as well as an increase in vegetarian-friendly establishments like Seven Spoons, has paved the way for a more herbivorous future in Bangkok. This year, we've also enjoyed the addition of Sorriso Italian vegetarian restaurant in Sukhumvit 20.
Several gourmet events have been held lately to showcase the best in plant-based gastronomy. These include a series of exclusive wine dinners by globe-trotting French chef Jean-Christian Jury at Anantara Siam hotel and Avani Riverside Bangkok, and an al fresco seven-course vegetarian table dinner by Michelin-starred chef Henrik Yde Andersen at Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin.
Meanwhile many 5-star restaurants have now added full-course vegetarian menus into their regular selections.
