It felt like I was living in a painting. Nestled high up in the southern slopes of the Parnassos Mountains of mainland Greece and just two hours from Athens, the windows of my villa framed the panoramic scenes perfectly. Olive trees and wildflowers added brush strokes of colour. The soundtrack was provided by the birds and crickets soaking up the warm sunshine.
For many years, I had passed through quaint Arachova on my way to my grandfather’s village Galaxidi and thought how pretty it looked. So, when I had the chance to visit and stay at the Santa Marina Arachova Resort & Spa I knew it was meant to be. The boutique resort opened 20 years ago as the place to be for the ski season (Mount Parnassos is the main destination in Greece during the winter months).
This year welcomes the start of it being open all year round. I’m surprised the Papageorgiou family waited this long — it’s the ideal base for mountain hiking and forest trekking. You can also explore the neighbouring historical site of Delphi, the stunning nearby villages and a 10th-century monastery.
The resort is made up of 20 suites and two private villas for larger groups, all of which are impeccably furnished with luxurious touches and a true country charm. Above all, it feels homely which is in large part thanks to the authentic Greek hospitality from the staff. Everyone is warm, from the welcoming receptionists and restaurant team to the manager Iordanis, who is the heartbeat of the complex.
Once I had torn myself away from gazing slack-jawed at the scenery, I headed to the on-site Õsme Spa to indulge in the hammam, sauna, jacuzzi, indoor pool and a rejuvenating massage treatment to unwind after my travels. I skipped the gym, but it looked to have everything one would want. Dinner was in The Lounge, where Greek cuisine is cleverly prepared with both seasonal and local ingredients. The local grilled cheese, “formaela”, with seasonal greens is a must, as is the slow-cooked veal giouvetsi served with orzo pasta. Delicious. Always having room for dessert, the walnut pie with ice cream paired effortlessly with my Greek rosé wine.
It’s a short walk down to the village centre for an authentically local taverna meal in the evening, with cute shops lining the cobbled streets selling anything from olive oils pressed in the area to mountain tea. I dined at Arhontiko for a classic kleftiko lamb dish and oregano fries and a view of Arachova’s centrepiece — the illuminated Bell Tower which delicately balances on the cliff edge and softly chimes on-the-hour, momentarily breaking the peaceful tranquillity to remind you that time does actually exist.
Eager to explore further, I took the 15-minute drive to Delphi, the “womb of the earth” and one of the key archaeological sites of Greece. It’s also home to the legendary Oracle and is a real bucket list moment. I have visited its ancient monuments many times and made the climb to the top since I was a child, but every time is like the first. Next stop was the tiny unspoilt village of Agoriani, where the old locals sit outside sipping on home-made retsina (traditional Greek wine flavoured with pine resin) together. It’s also home to an incredible mountain waterfall that I strongly advise you to seek out.
The historic walled Monastery of Osias Loukas is another must-visit spot. The Byzantine architecture and art have contributed to its status as a Unesco World Heritage Site. The monks who live there are so endearing and love nothing more than telling the story of the monastery and boasting of its historical importance.
Finally, on to Galaxidi at the foot of the mountain. In my mind, it is the essential place to visit for its neo-classical architecture and protected view of the Church of Saint Nikolaos. The narrow, cobbled roads lead down to the central harbour where you can enjoy the taverna life before taking a dip in the clear waters. Gazing back at the village, that feeling returned: Galaxidi is like a painting brought to life — so beautiful only Apollo could have created it.
Suites at Santa Marina Arachova Resort & Spa start from £260 per night; santamarina-arachovaresort.gr
