SAN ANTONIO _ As I made my way past the steps leading down to the river level of the Paseo del Rio and headed toward La Villita, I found myself surrounded by an army of black-clad figures, faces painted a luminous white, giving them a skull-like appearance. It might have been a scene from "The Walking Dead."
It wasn't the "Walking Dead," however, but those walking in honor of the dead. I was here for San Antonio's annual Dia de los Muertos or Day of the Dead celebration. The multiday holiday (Nov. 1-3), which originated in Mexico, brings family and friends of the deceased together to honor them and pray for their spiritual journey. It is not a time of sadness, but indeed one of celebration.
And when it comes to celebrations, San Antonio is no slouch. With its rich Mexican heritage, the city holds the largest Day of the Dead celebration in the United States. It can be seen in the gaily painted ceramic skulls throughout the city, in the elaborate clothes and even more elaborate face painting of the participants, and especially in the altars, decorated with photos of the deceased, candles, flowers (most commonly marigolds), beads and food, the latter providing sustenance for the dead who, it is believed, are allowed to return on this day.
Ground zero for the celebration is La Villita (Little Village) founded nearly 300 years ago as one of the city's first neighborhoods, and this is where I'm headed when I encounter the black clad revelers with their skull-like visages.
I find a viewing spot facing the Arneson River Theater, and for the next hour watch entranced as barge after barge, decked out in colorful finery and known as "trajineras," wend their way down the river in a floating parade.
Most of the floats feature tall female skeletons sporting elaborate hats with feathers, known as Catrineras. They may put you immediately in mind of the Disney film "Coco," but the figure actually represents La Catrina, the Aztec goddess of death who protects the departed and assists them into the afterlife. To say the parade is pageantry in its highest form is an understatement.
If I had thought the pageantry would end after the River Parade, I was in for a surprise. The celebration continued nonstop for the entire three days.
At the marvelous Witte Museum, a special exhibition Mythic Creatures: Dragons, Unicorns and Mermaids (through Jan. 12) includes a section on Alebrijes, brightly colored Mexican folk art sculptures of mythical creatures. Not to be left out, there is also a Texas legend, the gruesome Chupacabra, which got its name from sucking the blood of goats.
While at the Witte, don't pass up the Texas Wild Gallery, a fascinating look at the flora and fauna inhabiting the eight ecosystems of the state from swamp and bayou to mountains and desert, from piney woods and Gulf Coast beaches to prairies and rolling plains.
As food plays an important role in Day of the Dead rituals, it's essential to book a table at some of the city's best restaurants, which contribute their part to the celebration.
One you can't book _ but stand in line anyway _ is La Panaderia, a bakery specializing in long-fermented Latin American breads. La Panaderia turns out hundreds of loaves of Pan de Muerto bread as altar offerings to the dead. The living will appreciate this delectable bread as well.
Celebrity chef Johnny Hernandez gets into the spirit of the festivities with his "7 Dias, 7 Moles" menu at his iconic restaurant La Gloria in the Pearl District. A hub of activity during the Day of the Dead weekend, it is equally popular the rest of the year so it's wise to book if you don't want to wait in line for a table.
Another festive spot is Mi Tierra Cafe in Market Square, where the party goes on 24/7. That's right _ it's never-ending fiesta here. This means margaritas and mariachis, costumed servers and classic Mexican dishes from both north and south of the border. This one's not to be missed.
Dinner at Supper, the fine dining restaurant at Hotel Emma in the Pearl District, is a bit more subdued. Go early for drinks in Sternewirth, the atmospheric bar where a dramatic 25-foot vaulted ceiling is the focal point of what was once Cellar 6 when this was part of the Pearl Brewing Company.
The menu at Supper combines Chef John Brand's loyalty to his Midwestern roots and South Texas' multicultural foodways and bounty of year-round produce. While changing seasonally, it features dishes such as crispy fried Texas quail with pickled corn relish and chili garlic honey, and fried green tomatoes with pimento cheese, pickles and Oaxacan pepper jelly.
Choosing a bit of history to go along with lunch one day, I opted for Maverick Whiskey. Located in a former bank building that now is home to both a distillery and a Texas history museum, it's possible to grab a cocktail (I recommend Ghosts of the Alamo) and peruse all manner of Texana. The display ranges from a copy of the Texas Declaration of Independence to photos of Sam Maverick, the would-be Alamo defender who instead was selected by William Barrett Travis to ride to Washington-on-the-Brazos in search of reinforcements.
He arrived too late, of course, but his legacy lives on in current owner Kenneth Maverick's nod to his family's storied patriarch.
No visit to San Antonio can be complete without a trip to the Alamo, the Lone Star State's shrine and dear to the heart of every Texan. Each time I come to the city, I feel the need to stand in the dimly lit chapel and imagine those tragic 13 days in 1836 that ultimately resulted in the deaths of all the defenders, but also in the birth of a new nation, the Republic of Texas.
I also paid a nostalgic visit to the Menger Hotel, just across the plaza from the Alamo, which I first visited many years ago with my grandfather, who introduced me to its historic bar where Teddy Roosevelt once recruited his Rough Riders.
Another historic hotel, the Crockett, located on the other side of the Alamo, is perfectly situated for exploring the city's main attractions _ La Villita, the River Walk, Spanish Governor's Palace and the Main Plaza anchored by San Fernando Cathedral.
However, it's not just convenience that makes the Crockett special. Operating independently for more than a century, the hotel has 138 comfortable rooms and suites, swimming pool and Ernie's Bar, a popular meeting spot.
But mostly, it has a super-friendly staff who delight in handling your every request and even some you don't make. Several times during my stay, I arrived in my room to discover a small gift such as the mask with its sparkles and flowers, and a tiny doll made of paper and carrying a basket of colorful blooms.
Visiting San Antonio during the Day of the Dead celebration is a "live-ly" experience, but visiting at any time is a treat. After all, there's a reason why legendary humorist Will Rogers called it "one of America's four unique cities."
