The city of Honjo in Saitama Prefecture sits in an important area in terms of ancient history, with more than 600 confirmed ancient tombs, 30% of which have been found with haniwa clay figures in them. In particular, Honjo is known for its "laughing haniwa," a rare style that has been unearthed with uncommon frequency in the city.
The main exhibit at the Honjo-Waseda no Mori Museum comprises, of course, the laughing haniwa, also known as the Tatemochi jinbutsu haniwa (haniwa clay figure with a shield), which are believed to have been made in the late sixth century, toward the latter half of the Kofun period (ca 300-ca 710).
The figures measure about a meter tall and feature a large shield, large ears and narrow eyes. Although their mouths are hollow now, they are believed to have originally held inlaid white stones for teeth. It is only natural that the charming figures would become the model for the city's mascot character, Hanipon.
However, the name "laughing haniwa" might be a misnomer. According to Yuki Matsuhashi, 36, a curator at the museum, the haniwa are "not smiling, but baring their teeth in menace." The expression may be analogous to how monkeys appear to smile when they confront enemies with exposed teeth.
This explanation certainly makes sense, given that the haniwa were presumably placed at the entrance of stone tomb chambers as guards, their shields facing outward to protect the deceased buried within. Et tu, Hanipon?
At the entrance of the exhibition room, 22 haniwa are displayed on a circular platform in reference to how they would have actually been arranged at a tomb. It is thought that house-shaped haniwa were usually placed around the top of the tombs, and human- or animal-shaped haniwa were set at the bottom.
According to an exhibition panel, haniwa evidently came in all sorts of shapes, ranging from swords to bows and boats. There are also some chronological differences: chicken-shaped haniwa appeared in the fourth century and horse-shaped haniwa in the fifth to sixth centuries, for example. In the Kanto region, haniwa production reached a peak in the latter half of the sixth century. But it is a mystery why production suddenly stopped in the seventh century.
The museum includes many exhibits that attest to an early artistic impulse, such as crystal, agate magatama beads, and dynamically decorated earthenware. I left feeling a little closer to the Kofun period, a world which I had only known from school textbooks, as I imagined an ancient artist dreaming up a design for their next haniwa or earthenware creation.
Honjo-Waseda no Mori Museum: 1F Waseda Research Park Communication Center, 1011 Nishitomida, Honjo, Saitama Prefecture
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