Opening a show at New York Fashion Week is a moment most models dream of, something that Sabina Karlsson, the plus-size model who recently opened the Chromat show at NYFW, can attest.
Karlsson was scouted in a Swedish salon at the age of four and went on to work in high fashion with a number of esteemed designers such as Jean Paul Gautier and Armani.
But problems arose when Karlsson turned 17 and casting agents began questioning her size, branding her thighs “too big”. The increasingly unrealistic expectations placed on models saw Karlsson place herself under strict diets and twice daily exercise routines in order to shrink to a UK size 6. But this was a regime that meant she was ultimately headed for a burn out that would no doubt arrive sooner rather than later.
Instead of fighting against her body, Karlsson left straight size modelling in 2010 and returned to plus-size fashion as a size 16 model, a move that paved the way for the five-year career she has enjoyed since. Since her transition, Karlsson has modelled for major outfitters such as Levis and H&M. She now campaigns for body positivity, diversity within fashion and for models to be treated better by an industry that has a habit of chewing young women up and spitting them out.
Karlsson talked to The Independent about how becoming a curve model made her ultimately happier and more successful.
You said issues with casting agents began when you were 17. What happened?
Most of the people I saw during casting liked me and my look, but some people reminded me that I was a bit too big. Most often they would comment my thighs and hips.
How did comments about your size from casting agents affect you? What are the biggest problems with the way models are treated?
The comments I got about my body definitely affected me, especially in the beginning of my career being only 17. I would adjust my diet and write food diaries to keep track of what I ate. It was a constant process of thinking about what I could and couldn’t eat.
What did you do to try and keep your weight down?
I would work out almost every morning before breakfast and would then normally complete another session later during that day. I tried all different kinds of diets, always with the hope of getting results. I’ve always loved food so it was hard for me to stay away from it, so I’d work out more so that I could treat myself if I felt like it.
How did dieting and working out so rigorously effect you?
Most of the time I felt like my body was working against me. No matter how much I worked out, my measurements didn’t get smaller. I think it was my body telling me that this wasn’t how it wanted to be. I was 1.80m tall and weighed 59kg which wasn’t natural for my body.
When did you make the decision to leave straight size modelling, and why? What was the tipping point, and how did you get back into modelling as a plus-size model?
In 2010 I had been struggling with getting into the shape that the industry was asking for. I was working very hard for it and I even went on a six-week boot camp trip to Cambodia where my personal trainer lived, but I was still not skinny enough. At that time I was tired, exhausted after all the hard work and still no success. Then I was introduced to the Plus division at my agency and that was the first time someone told me that I was perfect.
Was the reception you received as a plus-size model different to the way you were received as a straight size model?
So much stress was released as I started working as a curve model. I never felt judged by my size, I was being accepted for who I am. This was something new for me and that’s when the journey of loving myself more started.
How do you feel about yourself now as a plus-size model?
I’m so much more confident in my own body, I know my body and best of all I love it. I wouldn’t want to go back being that skinny again - that wasn’t for me.
Can you name some of the campaigns you have appeared in since 2010?
Levis Curve ID, Evans, Lane Bryant #PlusIsEqual.
Where do you stand with plus size as a term - some body-positive campaigners believe it is negative because it categorises women by weight?
I don’t think women should be categorised by their size, there’s something much deeper than that. The goal is to help girls and women out there feel good about themselves, whether they’re a size US 4 or a US 16.
Why do you think the body positive movement is getting so much attention now?
People are realising that beauty is more than just one size and that women comes in all shapes and sizes. It’s time for everyone to share the spotlight, we can't keep excluding a large group of women out there. It’s time for diversity.
Should we expect to see more plus-size models appearing in mainstream campaigns in the future?
Yes!! I’m going to make sure that it will happen! We’re here to stay.
