From tidal inlets of white sand fringed in leafy oaks we venture inland along the shore of Loch Morar. The rough track passes woodland of birch and oak, skirting bogs with cotton grass, myrtle and orchids. Mountain tops ahead are clear, and sun sparkles on ruffled water which slops on to pebbly coves and rocky outcrops. Willow warblers and skylarks sing and, high up above the crags, an eagle glides away and out of sight. Ruins and folds mark abandoned settlements and, over the pass down to tidal Loch Nevis, a former chapel and inn at Tarbet are now used for holidays. Miles from the open sea, this was where herring fishermen used to stay and pack their catches. This afternoon a tender will fetch and take us out to the recently refitted Western Isles boat on its way back from a scenic trip out of Mallaig. Once safely on board, amid the grandeur of sea and sparsely populated mountains, the skipper points out a new lochside castle, accessible by helicopter. Deer cross the skyline, and the remote lands of Knoydart appear "most melancholy in connection with the entire removal of a population" during the Highland clearances.
Next morning after breakfast, on the final day of our tour of Scotland by rail, boat and bus, we cross from guest house to the station to begin the journey homewards. The dawn chorus began at 3am and, across the sea, Eigg and Rum are in and out of clouds. During a stop at Fort William, out on Loch Linnhe, we see a mussel farm. Captive salmon leap above their cages to catch food dispersed from a spinning hose-pipe; a sea-eagle perches above seven seals that loll among seaweed on a rocky islet; and Ben Nevis is streaked in snow. Then, from the sleeper train, the last memorable sight is of deer, turning away to disappear into the misty twilight of Rannoch Moor.
