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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Interview by Dale Berning Sawa

Roy Brett: ‘Flowers don’t taste so good - not even nasturtiums’

Roy Brett oyster knife and red mullet
Roy Brett: ‘There are very few people who can do the basics well.’ Photograph: Roy Brett/Instagram for the Guardian

My kitchen is … very shiny. Recently fitted, it has lovely clean lines and an induction suite with three drop drawers underneath. Induction stoves allow for more storage than others, and this kitchen has great storage. I can put everything away – even my blender. I don’t like clutter or mess. The only thing I have out on my counter is my espresso maker.

My favourite kitchen tool is … an oyster knife, from Wright Brothers in London. It has a beautiful handle, which sits very comfortably in your hand. I have been getting the same knife for 20 years – I must be on about number 40. When we were doing the Edinburgh festival this year, we opened 6,000 oysters over the three weeks and I used the same knife the whole time. It still hasn’t broken.

My storecupboard staple is … long-grain brown rice, usually Uncle Ben’s instant. When I come home from work it makes the best quick supper for the kids, before dinner service. I’ll cook it up with a little hot water or chicken stock, take it on a bit of a journey by the spice cupboard, chuck in some fresh herbs or veg, and it’s done: a lovely meal that took all of five minutes to make. My son’s a rugby player so I need to feed him a lot! He’s taller than me now – I think he could sort me out, so gotta be careful.

When I’m starving I … have canned tuna in olive oil – always MSC-certified albacore. I add lemon juice and sea salt and eat it right out of the tin. As a chef, you’re always looking for that quick fix. When you’re looking after people all day at home and at the restaurant, you are third in the pecking order, so you need something beneficial and nutritious.

My culinary inspiration is … hmmm, I have a lot of food heroes. I could never say it’s just the one: it’d be unfair on the others. In particular, Keith Floyd when I was younger, then Rick Stein and Mark Hix. I learned so much from them: their respect for produce and seasonality, the importance of keeping it simple and not making make yourself look clever. Running a restaurant has to be about satisfying the customer – people come to have a great time, and to feel a little bit better when they leave your care.

My best-kept kitchen secret is … to really understand how to cook things properly, knowing the traditional methods that have stood the test of time. There are still very few people who can do the basics well: how to fillet a fish, how to cook it; understanding the produce and how to deliver it to your guest at the right point.

When I’m invited to dinner I always take … a whole side of smoked salmon. When you hand that to someone, and give them a hug, saying, “This is for you”, it means something. Flowers don’t taste so good – not even nasturtiums.

Everything tastes better with … citrus zest and sea salt.

When I go shopping I … get carried away. If I have a bit of time, say for a Sunday lunch, I go through the whole journey. I theme the meal – Spanish, Italian etc – and I see it all the way through from the starter to the pudding. A bit of a romantic journey.

For dinner tonight … I’m not having much. The guys are doing a lentil and pancetta soup before dinner service. Just something light – I don’t like working on a full stomach.

• Roy Brett is chef patron of Ondine restaurant, Edinburgh.

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