It's a tradition that began in 1924 when French wine-maker Baron Philippe de Rothschild asked Jean Carlu to create a new piece of art to be set above the traditional Château Mouton-Rothschild label. This year, though, there are a few eyes being raised in Bordeaux because the château has asked Chinese artist Xu Lei to design the label for its 2008 vintage, which is due to be released next year.
Nice as the delicate blue ink drawing is, there is a feeling that Xu Lei has been chosen more for his nationality than his talent. In other words, the new Chinese wealthy upper class has developed a taste for fine French wine and the baron is looking to cash in. I mean, forge cultural links between east and west.
And even though the wine might now look to some Chinese consumers like a bad knock-off, it has had no effect on price. Quite the reverse, in fact. When rumours that a Chinese artist would be chosen began to circulate, the price of a case rose from £1,800 to £2,200 overnight. So Xu Lei gets to join the impressive list of artist who have designed Rothschild's labels. Artists such as Kandinsky, Braque, Chagall, Dalí, Warhol, Picasso and . . . our very own Prince of Wales. Yes, really.
