Like a mini MBA in Michelin-star stature, L'Atelier de Joel Rubochon (L5, MahaNakhon CUBE – BTS Chongnonsi), evidences all the essential ingredients with revelatory clarity. For it's not just about the food & drink that even competitors gush over, but also the impeccably tasteful décor, diner-friendly concept, and sparkling yet genuine service.
Visiting the culinary luminary's 1-star Bangkok shrine of the finest dining to experience the "Special Black Truffle" menu heralding the Perigord season, you can't help thinking this is how it's supposed to be done.
Designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon (Georges V) the restaurant is styled as an ultra-luxury modern Parisian "atelier" (workshop). We're talking all-pervasive plushness in blood red and midnight black like the flagship boutique of a vampire couturier. From the grand entrance through the open kitchen-diner zone to the salon-savvy dining rooms and terrace beyond, the curated modern art is all originals. No knock-offs for Joel who rose from bricklayer's son to running with a record 34 simultaneous Michelin stars throughout his 20+-strong international portfolio.
The buzzing sushi- and tapas-bar inspired main area is impregnated with an equally fashionably-finished open kitchen, lending a cinematic quality to interaction between chefs and diners. Between, them in-season spices are artfully arranged where the sashimi would go. Behind, hydroponic rows of grass signal life abundant.
The suite of dining rooms, part-styled by Swarovski, where table service is more classic, are another gob-stopper. A more romantic spot to woo this Valentine's beggars the imagination.
As for the food, it's a mouth-watering melange of consummate flavours, textures and arrangement. All still "Very Robuchon", thanks to his obsession with recording every detail of his hallowed recipes, philosophy and techniques, followed religiously.
Executive Chef Olivier Limousin has been winning Robuchon stars in London, Paris and now Bangkok, since 2003. Restaurant Manager Gianvito Zizzi and Pastry Chef Yanis Janssens are similarly stellar.
About 75% of the dishes you can find at a Robuchon anywhere in the world. Others are created by the chefs insitu. Most signature dishes feature just three ingredients. All are to swoon for.
This season's 4-course menu, available lunch and dinner through March, is priced 3,850++.
The house-baked bread basked is exceptional. The butter is among several items Robuchon only sources from one supplier – Imperial caviar from Sologne, black truffles and foie gras from Perigord, ratdutuke tatties for the famous mash from Normandy.
The signature pour commencer – the definition of delicious – combines foie gras custard, port wine reduction, and Parmesan cheese foam.
There's a choice of appetizer. Sea bream carpaccio is splendidly subtle with citrus dressing, caviar, and tiny crouton. Alternatively, steak tartare with quail egg, black truffle, baby spinach, slathered on toasted country bread, with a side of fries and mayo, is perfection.
With the 2nd appetizer, soft boiled egg on golden pearl rice, truffle and parmesan, the rice is Parmesan risotto hardened into a cake on the teppan, Robuchon's preference for frying and grilling. Call it essence of bacon and eggs, only far tastier.
The mains choice is to surf or turf. Roasted lobster, celeriac and chestnuts joins asparagus and baby spinach, surrounded with rich lobster bisque infused with black truffle and wine.
Aged beef Tournedos, "perigueux" foie gras and black truffle sauce is counterpoised with sweet dots of porto reduction, potato twirl, and that mash. One is reminded that the French invented "steak frites" triggering the whole fetish. Robuchon's take is a masterstroke.
From insanely smooth mash to silky smooth chocolate: single origin Tinori from Dominican Republic with cremeux creamy custard, chantilly whipped cream, gold-encrusted Oreo crumble, and chocolate sherbet beneath a chequered chocolate cover. Conclude with four petit fours.
Wines range Bt1,200 to 680,000 per bottle, Bt400-Bt1,000/glass.
Verdict: nothing pretentious, just brilliant.
Open 11:30 – 14:00 hrs and 18:30 – 22:00 hrs
http://robuchon-bangkok.com
https://www.facebook.com/atelier.bkk
Tel. 02-001-0698
