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Lifestyle

Rise of the soft pairings

The current trend of zero proof drinks has slowly made its way into the fine dining world, which has, traditionally, been dominated by fine wine pairings.

Many fine dining establishments in Bangkok are now pairing their tasting menus with bespoke zero proof drinks that are created with the same attention, if not more, to enhance or contrast the flavours of the dishes, just like wine pairings. Elite Life lists a few.


Inddee

Thanakorn "Jay" Bottorff, head sommelier at Inddee, is no stranger to the spirits scene in Thailand, having been one of the country's top sommeliers for years.

Thanakorn 'Jay' Bottorff, head sommelier at Inddee. (Photos courtesy of Inddee)

"To me, a non-alcoholic pairing is not about replacing wine. I think about it in the same way I think about wine. Structure comes first. I decide how I want the drink to feel. Sharp, soft, dry, round, long, or short. Only after that I start choosing the ingredients," Jay says.

"The starting point is not just the flavour, but how the drink feels in the mouth. At the same time, I always study the dish. I look at the key elements, like richness, acidity, spiciness or umami, and try to reinterpret those into the drink in a more subtle way. Sometimes I want something that drinks like a white wine with high acidity. Sometimes I want something closer to a red wine, with a bit of grip and depth. In some cases, I look towards sake, especially when I'm working with umami or more delicate dishes.

"That's also why I like using a koji-based drink. It naturally brings umami, a gentle sweetness and a bit of acidity, so it gives me more flexibility compared to juice or non-alcoholic wine. I can adjust it quite easily depending on the dish without making it feel heavy. From there, I build using teas, fruits, grains or umami elements like koji or seaweed.

"The goal is always that the drink can stand on its own. If it only works with the dish, then it's not good enough yet."

Inddee's non-alcoholic pairing changes all the time and is not a fixed set. Every drink is built for a specific dish, so when the menu changes, the drinks change too.

"Some are very clean and fresh, based on citrus and acidity. Others are deeper, with spice, roasted notes, or a bit of bitterness. One thing that's important for me is that the drinks are still drinkable. I don't like things that feel too 'constructed' or too heavy. It still has to feel like something you want to drink, not something you analyse too much.

"The one I enjoy the most is a pairing we do with a butter pepper garlic crab dish. The drink is built around a clear koji infusion, but on its own that can be quite strong and a bit too direct, aromatically. I blend in a light jasmine tea to soften the edges and give it a more lifted, floral note both on the nose and at the end of the palate. It's not a loud pairing, but it brings everything together in a direct way."

Make the Koji Citrus Brine at home

Ingredients:

  • 300ml Koji Clear
  • 3ml yuzu ponzu
  • 1.5ml rice vinegar
  • 1.5ml white soy sauce
  • 5ml toasted curry leaf tea
  • 3ml pickled daikon brine
  • 3 drops toasted sesame oil
  • 50ml jasmine tea

Method:

Mix all ingredients and serve over ice.

"This is a very light and refreshing drink, especially when served cold, so it works nicely as a summer drink on its own. It pairs best with seafood, particularly dishes that have some richness like butter or cream, because the acidity and salinity help cut through the fat. At the same time, it has a clean finish, so it works well to reset the palate after a heavier meal," says Jay.


Elements By Ciel Blue

Oliver Sven Kunz, the new restaurant manager at Elements Inspired by Ciel Bleu at The Okura Prestige Bangkok, began his career as a cook before moving into sales, directing banquet operations, and finally transitioning to Thailand.

Oliver Sven Kunz, restaurant manager at Elements Inspired by Ciel Bleu at The Okura Prestige Bangkok. (Photos courtesy of Elements By Ciel Blue)

"The starting point is always the dish. We view our non-alcoholic pairings through the same lens of precision as a world-class wine cellar. It's about structure, acidity and aromatic progression. We aren't just serving a beverage, we are constructing a liquid bridge that connects the guest's palate from one course to the next, ensuring the non-alcoholic journey is as intentional and nuanced as any vintage pairing," says Kunz.

The experience begins with a curated non-alcoholic sparkling wine, selected for its fine bead and crisp acidity, a profile that resemble a classic Champagne.

"We pair this with our 'Meiji maguro and puffed corn ice cream'. The effervescence of the drink cuts through the tuna's richness while elevating the creamy, toasted notes of the corn. It's a dynamic opening that plays with texture and light.

"Our pairings are inherently seasonal and ingredient-driven. As the kitchen shifts to honour the changing harvest, our beverage programme reflects it. This ensures the 'culinary narrative' remains cohesive and every sip reflects the peak of the season," Kunz adds.

"Currently, I am captivated by our lightly fermented Jasmine tea infused with stone fruit. We serve it alongside a delicate seafood course. The natural floral aromatics of the tea amplify the sweetness of the seafood, while the subtle acidity from the fermentation adds refined complexity."

Make the Jasmine and Citrus Spritz at home

Ingredients:

  • 200ml brewed jasmine tea (chilled)
  • 50ml fresh orange juice
  • 10ml fresh lemon juice
  • 15ml honey or simple syrup (adjust for sweetness)
  • Sparkling water
  • For the garnish: Expressed orange peel or a sprig of fresh mint

Method:

1. Infuse: Brew a high-quality jasmine tea and allow it to cool completely to preserve the delicate floral oils.

2. Combine: In a chilled glass, stir together the tea, orange juice, lemon juice and honey until fully integrated.

3. Build: Fill the glass with large ice cubes, then top with sparkling water for a crisp finish. Finish: Gently stir and express the oils of an orange peel over the glass to release the aromatics.

"This drink is a study in balance. It is floral and citrus-forward, making it a versatile companion for light appetisers or a sophisticated standalone refresher," says Kunz.


Mia

Shane Valerie Jamilla Pangan is the Philippines-born sommelier at Mia. She began her career at Mia in service before transitioning into beverage pairing, where she found her true passion.

Shane Valerie Jamilla Pangan, Philippines-born sommelier at Mia. (Photo: Ratchayut Aiamklang)

With a strong focus on both wine and non-alcoholic programmes, her approach is guided by balance, texture and aroma. Her work is driven by a desire to continuously learn and refine her craft, creating thoughtful pairings that elevate the overall dining experience.

"From the beginning, our intention has been to treat the non-alcoholic pairing with exactly the same rigour as the wine list. That means no fruit juices assembled as an afterthought. Every pairing is deliberate: built around the flavour architecture of the dish, the season, and the texture and weight of what is on the plate," says Pangan.

"Part of what drives this is personal. Chef Michelle does not drink alcohol, so we know first-hand what it feels like when the non-alcoholic option is a poor second thought. That experience shaped how we approached building ours from day one. It needed to be something our guests could choose because they genuinely wanted it, not because it was the only alternative," adds Pangan, who works closely with the kitchen team throughout the menu development process, so the pairings are built in parallel with the dishes rather than added on afterwards.

"At its core, our philosophy is that each non-alcoholic pairing should function as an extension of the dish itself. Less is always more. We believe that simple, hidden complexities will always outperform a technically elaborate process that produces something interesting but falls short on the most important measure: deliciousness.

"The foundation of our non-alcoholic programme is Thai fruit. We are surrounded by an extraordinary abundance of them here and we approach pairing through a scent-forward/scientific-forward lens. That might mean cold infusions for specific herbs and flowers, fat-washing oils into fruit juices, or allowing fruit to ripen to the edge of fermentation and then using ice filtration to capture it at its peak sucrose content," she says.

The pairing runs across six glasses and features a core of rotating seasonal drinks alongside a handful of mainstays tied to our signature dishes.

"My favourite pairing is the banana and elderflower ice filtered consommé that pairs with the seafood chawanmushi. Its gentle sweetness, floral notes and light acidity lift the richness of the custard while enhancing the natural sweetness of the seafood, creating a clean and balanced pairing," adds Pangan.

Make the Banana and Elderflower Ice Filtered Consommé at home

Ingredients:

  • 1kg roasted banana
  • 30ml banana syrup
  • 60ml elderflower syrup
  • 2 litres coconut water
  • 250ml apple juice
  • 1 whole Fresh lemon juice
  • 8g salt

Method:

1. Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend until fully smooth.

2. Transfer the mixture into a container and freeze until solid.

3. Once frozen, place the mixture in a fine cloth or filter.

4. Let it drip naturally without pressing, until a clear liquid is extracted.

5. Discard the solids and keep the clarified liquid chilled.

6. Serve well-chilled in a burgundy glass.


Duet By David Toutain

Sirayu Aupping is the sommelier at Duet By David Toutain in charge of creating the non-alcoholic drink pairing, and his zero proof drinks are some of my favourite in Bangkok.

Sirayu Aupping is the sommelier at Duet By David Toutain. (Photos courtesy of Duet by David Toutain)

"I start by studying the draft menu and the chef's vision, focusing on key elements, flavour profiles and the core concept. Using that as a foundation, I craft the idea of a drink that tells a story and complements the experience, drawing inspiration from textures, storytelling and flavours derived from the dish," says Sirayu.

"Next, we gather all related ingredients and develop draft recipes, tasting and adjusting along the way. It's a fun experiment -- we develop new techniques and new combinations in the process. Actually, we've had quite a number of failed recipes, but each one taught us something new."

Every new menu brings a fresh set of pairings because each drink is crafted to complement a specific dish.

"Our non-alcoholic pairing programme is built around the culinary elements of the dishes. This positions them not as juices or non-alcoholic cocktails, but as gastronomic experiences that reflect the transformation and alignment of the ingredients in a crafted beverage form," says Sirayu.

"In the current menu, we aimed for comfort and balance. The journey starts with refreshing, aromatic herbal flavours, moves to bold, spiced, savoury notes and finishes with lush tropical fruits alongside dessert.

"The first pairing, 'Makrut & Palm' is my favourite and I think it's a great introduction to our pairing journey. It's a simple refreshing drink with, yet it combines various components -- freshness, herbal aroma, and savoury part."

Make the Makrut and Palm at home

Ingredients:

  • 10 fresh kaffir lime leaves
  • 50ml yuzu juice (fresh or bottled)
  • 50ml lime juice
  • 50g palm sugar (shaved or finely chopped for easier blending)
  • 200ml water

Method:

1. Prep the Leaves: Ensure the leaves are removed from the woody stem. This prevents the cordial from becoming overly bitter.

2. Blend: Combine the kaffir lime leaves, yuzu juice, lime juice, palm sugar and water in a blender. Blend for one minute until the leaves are finely blended and the sugar is fully dissolved.

3. Strain (optional): For a fully kaffir lime texture, keep as is. For a clear finish, pour the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve or cheesecloth.

4. Chill: Store in a sealed bottle in the refrigerator. It is best used within two to three days to maintain the fresh citrus notes.

Serving Suggestions:

  • Duet by David Toutain zero-proof pairing: Mix with 1 part mixture with ⅓ part olive brine from pickled olives to create sensation pairing.
  • Sparkling: Mix 50ml of the mixture with 120ml of sparkling water over ice.
  • Herbal tea: Stir 3-4 tbsp of the mixture into a cup of hot green tea for a herbal tea.

Gaggan at Louis Vuitton

Jake Leard is restaurant and beverage manager at Gaggan at Louis Vuitton. Having worked with the Gaggan team in Bangkok and Singapore, after roles with Heston Blumenthal and George Calombaris in Australia, he also oversees the bar team in any curations for the menu.

Jake Leard is restaurant and beverage manager at Gaggan at Louis Vuitton.

"The process for any non-alcoholic creation always begins with the menu. With the dynamic flavour profiles of a progressive Asian cuisine-driven menu, our non-alcoholic pairing always looks to support the menu as it progresses along what is now 12 courses," says Leard.

"The current non-alcoholic pairing is five concoctions that progress from light and sharp profiles to more vegetal and rounded components.

"The favourite from this pairing would have to be the 'spring tomato' -- which brings together macerated heirloom tomatoes with elements of yuzu, canteloupe and a touch of wasabi. Pairing along with our final savoury courses, it shines particularly beside the lobster tail served with vindaloo and Goan chorizo jam."

Make the Passionfruit Spritz at home

Ingredients:

  • Passionfruit juice
  • 100ml hot water
  • 5g chrysanthemum flowers
  • 5g raw honey

Method:

1. Steep the hot water with chrysanthemum flowers and a raw honey of your choice.

2. Combine the two once cooled.

3. Serve over ice in the Bangkok heat with a dash of soda if desired for a cooling spritz.

4. Add some freshly coarse ground black pepper on top.

"Having grown up around passionfruit vines in my Australian childhood, these have always been one of my favourite fruits. A beautiful way to enjoy passionfruit juice, while taking off that tart edge, is to take equal parts fresh passionfruit juice to hot water," adds Leard.


Nusara

Ronnaporn "Neung" Kanivichaporn, co-founder of Mahaniyom, Nuss and Find The Locker Room, is well-known in the bar industry, being somewhat of an icon. In his spare time, he creates the non-alcoholic cocktail pairing at Nusara.

Ronnaporn 'Neung' Kanivichaporn of Nusara. (Photos courtesy of Nusara)

"First, I have to see ingredients and taste the dish. Then, I will start to think about taste and flavour, which can go with the dishes, by getting along or crossing the flavours. Our cocktails and non-alcoholic cocktail pairings are quite similar flavour profiles. I would like guests who prefer alcohol or non-alcohol to get the same flavours," says Neung.

Nusara sources a lot of local ingredients for the food menu and Neung uses the same process for his pairings.

"Using local ingredients, supporting local farmers and producers around Thailand, is also my motto. Once the dishes change, we also change the drinks," Neung adds.

"We have one drink with main course, where I did try to replicate the flavours of natural wine by using tea, grape juice and pickled carandas [Carissa carandas] juice. So it gave a nice fruity, acidity and tannin in the drinks. As you know that natural wine also goes well with Thai dishes."

Make the Ginger Mint Tea at home

Ingredients:

  • Ginger
  • Mint
  • 2tbsp honey
  • Lime
  • Black or green tea

Method:

1. Muddle the ginger and mint in a glass. 2. Add the honey and squeeze half a lime into it.

3. Stir to mix well and add ice. 4. Top up with black or green tea. 5. Garnish with a sprig of mint and sliced ginger.

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