The 2026 vintage represented a significant milestone for Helm Wines: it was the family-run Murrumbateman winery's 50th vintage of its beloved riesling.
To celebrate, founder and winemaker Ken Helm wasn't asking for the world, just a stress-free growing season that produces loads of quality fruit. Huh!
"Without doubt the most difficult growing season I've experienced in 50 years," Helm said.
"It threw everything at us. Frost in November took out half my crop, and then when everything was looking OK we had this huge hailstorm on New Year's Eve. It came from one side, so we were left with some good bunches on one side of the vine but decimated on the other.
"Then there was this hot, dry period where a lot of berries fell off diminishing the crop even more, and when we were finally ready to pick the rain came again. You couldn't ask for anything worse.
"In the end I was left with about a quarter of my fruit.
"But I've always lived by the philosophy of never wasting a good crisis. So, let's see what we can do.
"I bought some fruit off Celine Rousseau at nearby Eden Road winery to blend in with my own and somehow we have this fantastic riesling, probably one of the best we've produced. Don't ask me how."
That's the benefit of 50 years of experience.
When pressed, he put the new release "in the top five" Helm rieslings with a life expectancy of 25 to 30 years.
That's saying something, because he has produced some beauties over the years and is generally regarded as the Canberra region's top riesling producer.
"Canberra is a fantastic region for riesling,' he said.
"People ask me what's the secret to making good riesling, but it's all in the vineyard. My job is to pick at precisely the right time and I've become pretty good at that over the years.
"I've realised 24 to 48 hours difference in picking time can make an enormous difference.
"So I work really hard to ensure that flavour, acid and sugar are in balance. When it's close to picking time, I taste twice a day, morning and afternoon, going up and down the rows tasting.
"I keep 100ml samples in the winery of the juice from the previous week, tasting them to compare to today's grapes so I can see how the flavour is developing."
That attention to detail, 50 years of experience, the use of screwcaps and a winery dedicated to purely riesling fruit - he makes his other wines in a separate winery on the property - has made a world of difference.
"You can't rush experience. I'm 81 now, so it took a long time to get here," he said.
"At least I'll always remember my 50th vintage."
Helm Classic Dry Riesling 2026
$50
I can see why Ken Helm is so pleased with how the difficult '26 vintage turned out . . . this is drinking really well. Lifted aromatics of orange blossom, lime and apple, and a lively palate showing apple again, certainly lime and lemon sherbet, and just a hint of minerality. Clean, brightly set and with loads of citrussy drive, there's a lot to like here.
Usher Tinkler Tinkemans Old Vine Shiraz 2023
$55
This is a single-vineyard wine from vines planted in 1948, previously owned by Lindemans. It's quite the charmer, with a depth and concentration that somehow only those gnarly old vines seem to manage. Darkly fruited and foresty, there's dark plum, blackberry and black cherry all contributing, medium weight but long and silky. Yes indeed, quite the charmer.
Best's Bin No 1 Shiraz 2022
$27
Brightly perfumed nose of earthy forest floor, cloves and peppery herbs and spice. Medium-bodied, juicy and approachable, very much this wine's DNA over the years. Mixed red and black fruits with cherry, mulberry, blackberry and bitter chocolate, savoury and spicy. As always, it offers excellent value. Pair it with a pork backstrap, then sit back and enjoy.
