It’s a mite paradoxical that a Bangkok buffet institution among the architects of the whole munificent tradition, and one that channels the earliest days of Siam no less, is among the most vivacious.
Like some culinary courtesan wary of younger rivals’ claims on epicureans’ cravings, Colonnade, named for elegant sequences of con-joined columns that ancient Thai temple and palace architects have long-embraced, just can’t stop reiterating.
The most recent reincarnation of the multi-cultural menus reinforces its leading light credentials.
Don’t be too alarmed, however, if you’re a regular. The main themes of gala seafood on ice, a la carte quality Japanese, Italian, German, Chinese, Thai and other dishes, imported ingredients, and interactive freshness remain intact. As does Executive Pastry Chef Laurent Ganguillet’s legendary sticky toffee pudding/fudge sauce.
Besides new recipes wherever you graze, key tweaks include extended connoisseur selections, from seafood to cheeses and grills to desserts, and offering intermittent cooking cameos whereby virtuoso Executive Chef Thitisorn Amatasin or cohort demonstrates and serves particularly gourmet dishes.
Well, since the Sukhothai Bangkok’s signature restaurants include the Italian La Scala and Michelin Plate cited Thai Celadon, you expect refinement.
Indeed, the homemade pasta station rustles up top-notch interpretations. A simple spinach tagliatelle with pesto and parmesan, for instance, is exceptional even without the miscellany of add-ins.
Talented Thai Chef Rossarin Sripathum’s selections are similarly bespoke, from prawns flavoured with lemongrass and chilli paste to deep-fried seabass salad/roasted rice and from deep-fried codfish with tree-flavoured(!) sauce to red curry, prawn and winter melon.
And who else has seven kinds of freshly-shucked oysters? Meaty beasties from Surat Thani, and daintier delicacies from Normandy, Ireland, Jersey and on reflect customer preferences. Ditto the 26 Swiss, French, German and Italian cheeses – such a treat with dollops of organic honey scooped from the comb. Plus don’t decline gloriously gooey scrapings from the Swiss Raclette block-curd grilling station.
Credulity is similarly stretched at the sashimi counter with a dozen perfectly fresh fish varieties opposing massed ranks of torched salmon etc makis and sushis, and crispy battered fish finger and other tempuras.
Elsewhere whole duck foie gras with ginger nestles smoked salmon and gin & tonic gravlax. A live station simmers Belgian mussels in white wine or steams chili crabs.
Then there’s the monumental seafood alter: spider crabs, mud crabs, king crab legs, razor clams, mussels, scallops, rock lobster, river prawns, and on.
The carving station is equally bacchanalian with roasted leg of lamb/rosemary sauce, basil-rich ratatouille; pork knuckle, clove-steeped sauerkraut, apple sauce and; wagu beef rib, Yorkshire pudding, spinach gratin, red wine sauce.
Nearby are La Scala’s sumptuous slow-simmered lamb osso bucco, beef vol-au-vent, duck leg confit, spring seabass sambale. Herby lamb chops, salmon teriyaki, scallops, rock lobster, river prawns, sirloin sizzle on the griddle. Premium grade foie gras is pan-seared and plated with tart berry sauce.
With neighbouring Zuk Bar annexed, there’s no restraining Ganguillet’s passion. It’s hard to know whether to go for the exotic fruit vanilla pavlova, chocolates and pralines, white chocolate tower/passionfruit, summer pudding, churros and chocolate sauce or stick with pandan custard cake and Celadon éclairs. Not neglecting that toffee pudding.
All in Colonnade’s calm, elegant, carpeted home-style Thai fine dining room ambiance.
Sunday brunch is served 12:00 to 3:00 p.m. Priced Bt3,000 food only. Drinks packages: Champagne Bt2,200++; Wine Bt1,500++; Cocktails Bt900++; Soft Drink Bt200++.
Tel. 02 344 8888 email promotions@sukhothai.com
