Riding India's rails

Passengers make their way through Delhi station to catch the the Rajdhani night train from Delhi to Kolkata Photograph: Brijesh Patel

With a surging economy and booming population, India's railways matter more than ever: in 2005 to 2006, they carried 5.7 billion passengers Photograph: Brijesh Patel

Looking for a seat on the train Photograph: Brijesh Patel

Leaving Delhi for Kolkata, a 900-mile overnight journey that takes 17 hours Photograph: Brijesh Patel

A waiter brings food to the first-class compartments: hot water, a tea bag, cashew nuts, hot pakhora, chocolate, sandwich and an Indian sweet Photograph: Brijesh Patel

Over 30 years, Ian Jack has made more than 100 journeys on India's railways Photograph: Brijesh Patel

Berths come with panoramic views of Uttar Pradesh and Jharkland Photograph: Brijesh Patel

Entering Bengal, dry hills give way to green paddy fields and palm trees Photograph: Brijesh Patel

City life begins again in Kolkata with its colourful billboards Photograph: Brijesh Patel

Barefoot porters greet the train at Howrah station, Kolkata - it is only 90 minutes late Photograph: Brijesh Patel

Outside, a fleet of Ambassador taxis wait for fares into the city Photograph: Brijesh Patel

The Bengal and Nagpur Railway Hotel in Puri - in the 1980s, it was the only hotel on the beach. Now it is one of many, and is destined to be converted into a 'heritage hotel' Photograph: Brijesh Patel

The once sleepy backwater of Puri beach is now busy like Brighton Photograph: Brijesh Patel

Forty years ago, oil lanterns lit the few bungalows on this spot Photograph: Brijesh Patel