Rickshaw Run 2008

After a single five-minute driving lesson, we lined up alongside the 69 other rickshaw teams who would be attempting to drive from Kochi to the Himalayas without support or guidance. As Team Snailpace, we raised more than £1,000 for Mercy Corps Photograph: Matthew Watkinson/guardian.co.uk

Laura demonstrates the typical rickshaw driving position. With a top speed of 60kmph, we remained hopeful that leaning forward might generate a fractional increase in speed and help us cover the 4,000-plus kilometres within the 16-day target Photograph: Matthew Watkinson/guardian.co.uk

Our presence tended to generate a typical response from the local population: total confusion and disbelief swiftly followed by amused comprehension and huge grins. This rickshaw contained people but we saw all sorts of other cargo – goats, chickens, dismantled cars, a coffin and even a slightly concerned water buffalo at one point Photograph: Matthew Watkinson/guardian.co.uk

In an attempt to encourage responsible driving, the Indian authorities have introduced some advisory road signs. 'Better Mr Late than late Mr' was one favourite, but the clear winner is shown above. The signs were, ironically, divertingly funny and therefore just another hazard Photograph: Matthew Watkinson/guardian.co.uk

A wild tiger in Bandhavgarh National Park, where we stopped for a morning. As we ascended the escarpment where he rested, we couldn't help feeling like devoted subjects on a pilgrimage. It was a shockingly powerful wildlife encounter. How have we forced this magnificent animal to the brink of extinction? Photograph: Matthew Watkinson/guardian.co.uk

Roadside repairs were constantly required. By the time we reached Kathmandu, the fuel tank was held in place with a bungee cord, the fuel line with willpower and we had reattached the exhaust at least six times. Because many people here learn to fix rickshaws before they learn to walk, we always found help with our mechanical incidents Photograph: Matthew Watkinson/guardian.co.uk

We chose the main north–south highway to travel through India and suspect that this will be quite a pleasant journey 100 years from now. But our journey often involved negotiating roads almost entirely constructed from potholes. This photo actually shows a road that has been repaired! Photograph: Matthew Watkinson/guardian.co.uk

Regardless of where we stopped, a curious crowd would typically take 15-30 seconds to form and most spectators were particularly fascinated with Laura. People would often try to take her picture while we were driving. Motorbikes would pull alongside while the two or three passengers (yes, on a motorbike!) took photographs on their mobile phones Photograph: Matthew Watkinson/guardian.co.uk

On our penultimate day, we needed to drive 400km to give ourselves the best chance of finding overnight accommodation, but soon after setting off we drove into this impenetrable fog. We crawled for more than two hours and lost so much time we were forced to abandon our original plan. Fearing another appalling sleeping shed, we actually stumbled upon a luxurious safari lodge Photograph: Matthew Watkinson/guardian.co.uk

After 4,176 gruelling kilometres, we left the Snailpace machine for the last time. Our faithful companion for the previous two weeks had taken us through it all - up the mountains, through the jungles and, most perilous of all, the cities. In six months another group of nervous rickshaw novices will arrive to take him back into India and I’m sure he’ll serve them just as well Photograph: Matthew Watkinson/guardian.co.uk

Prior to the start, we had seriously considered driving straight to a train station. With the rickshaw safely packaged as freight, we could have followed the usual tourist trail and had a safe, relaxing holiday. But we would have missed a marvellous adventure in a hairdryer/milk float hybrid, and that would have been a disaster

The next Rickshaw Run launches on June 1 2008 Photograph: Matthew Watkinson/guardian.co.uk