Rick Stein has a long-standing love affair with Sydney. Despite living on the other side of the world, he finds himself returning time and again – whether it’s for early-morning fish market runs, coastal walks (en route to lunch, of course) or plates piled high with the city’s best seafood.
With three restaurants in New South Wales – Mollymook (bannisters.com.au), Port Stephens (bannisters.com.au) and Coogee Beach (ricksteinatcoogeebeach.com.au) and new TV series (Rick Stein’s Australia), celebrating the flavours, people and landscapes of New South Wales – here are the celebrity chef’s recommendations for eating, wandering and slowing down Down Under.
What’s your favourite destination and why?
I've been going there since I was 19 and I just think it's the most fabulous city in the world. It’s a beautiful location on the water and with the harbour, the bridge, the opera house etc. But also it's sort of the centre of really sort of exciting things: great food, great art... I just love the whole concept of it. I love the fact that it's a major city but on the ocean, there's very few cities which are right on the sea like that. It just gives it a sort of a “specialness”.
When were you last there and who were you with?
I was actually there in August with my wife, Sas (Sarah). I mean, I go there three times a year because I've got the restaurants there. So it's almost like a second home to me.
Where do you like to stay there?
We've got a house in Sydney, but aside from my home, I have occasionally stayed at the Park Hyatt Hotel (hyatt.com), which is downtown, in the part of Sydney called The Rocks. It's right by this harbour bridge and it's just got fabulous views over the water. Beautiful. It's a very, very lovely hotel.
What has been your favourite meal there?
One of my favourite recent meals was at Mr Wong's (merivale.com). Dan Hong is Vietnamese but he does the most magnificent Chinese food, and his signature dish is a char siu roasted glacier 51 toothfish. The fish is actually from a part of the Antarctic which is owned by Australia so I think they like to call it local fish. I mean, I defy anybody not to love that particular dish.
If you only had 24 hours there, what would you do?
In Sydney you’re spoiled for choice. 24 hours is not enough. But there's one thing that I actually really like, and it's a bit unusual. There's this children's book called Snugglepot and Cuddlepie and the woman that wrote it, May Gibbs, her house is very close to Neutral Bay and it's open to the public. When you go there, the house and garden is sort of reminiscent of the drawings in the book.
Apart from that, what I would obviously do is go and have lunch in one of the restaurants I mentioned and if I could fit it in, I'd go for a walk from Bondi to Bronte. It's a coastal walk and goes from Bondi Beach to Tamarama and finally to Bronte Beach. It's a fabulous walk because it's just sea views all the way, and quite often they have large sculptures on the routes, which make it even more interesting. There’s also an annual festival called Sculptures by the Sea.
What are your favourite restaurants?
One is a restaurant called Margaret's in Double Bay (themargaretfamily.com), I've known Neil Perry, the chef and owner at Margaret’s, for a long time. He shares my enthusiasm for fresh fish simply cooked so I always make a beeline there because his fish is second to none.
Then there’s Mr Wong's in the CBD. And finally, Sean's in North Bondi (seansbondi.com). It's just very individual, Aussie-style cooking; very light and fresh. It's got a fantastic wine list. And it's just a place that many of my friends go to regularly and we all share this enormous enthusiasm for a small, personally-run restaurant.
What’s the one unmissable thing you recommend doing?
There's so many things but the one thing I would do every time I go to Sydney is go to the fish market. They're actually just about to open a new one which I've been sort of involved with right from the the first dig, so I'm really looking forward to that opening.
Is there a hidden gem you are willing to share?
There’s definitely some not that well known beaches, which aren't necessarily on the ocean – they're on the harbour. The one I always go to is called Redleaf Beach, near Double Bay. It's the public beach but it's very quiet and tranquil and it's got a tidal swimming enclosure which is nice because it’s basically shark-proof. Plus it’s got a nice café so you could easily spend an afternoon there.
Where do you like to let your hair down?
I tend to got to Surry Hills – that's an inner city area which is really trendy and full of lovely bars and lovely restaurants. You could do a little bar crawl there, it’s got some quite nice wine bars with really special wine lists. It’s a bit like East London. Bar Conte (barconte.com.au), the Cricketers Arms Hotel (thecricketers.com.au) and Nomad are all good spots (nomad.sydney).
Who do you call to have a good time in Sydney?
Probably Sas’s brother, I like going out with him and his partner.
Favourite shops?
I’m not a huge shopper, that’s more Sas. But we’d recommend a bookshop called Three Sparrows (threesparrows.com.au), a menswear store called Hayman’s and Fourth Village (fourthvillage.com.au) if you’re looking for produce or artisanal food bits. I really love this DIY shop called Bunnings (bunnings.com.au) as I love my DIY.
What would bring home as a souvenir?
I’d probably bring back something like Vegemite or Cherry Ripes.
Do you have a favourite beauty spot?
Bionik Wellness in Surry Hills (bionikwellness.com.au) for a bit of science-focused R&R.
Your packing essentials for Sydney?
Sun cream – the sun is unbelievably stronger over there. You could sort of feel its fierceness, it’s much harsher than the Mediterranean sun. Don’t be without your factor 50.
A song that reminds you of Sydney?
There’s a song which I really love by Cold Chisel, Jimmy Barnes, the lead singer, is one of the biggest stars in Australia, and the song is called Flame Trees.
Is there a dress code?
I just wear a polo shirt and shorts, and just tend to wear deck shoes.
Have you ever had an emergency incident there?
Fortunately no, but I know I’d be in safe hands.
Which building would you like to live in?
The Icebergs Club in Bondi is right over the water and it looks over behind the break so you just see the surf building up and then, and then breaking and it was just really nice to just look out.
Do you have a favourite memory of Sydney?
I think really it was the first time I arrived in 1967, seeing the Harbour Bridge for the first time. It’s like the Statue of Liberty, you couldn’t believe you’re there. And actually the Opera House was nearly finished, so it was just seeing that and the Harbour Bridge for the first time on a boat.
Rick Stein’s Australia is available to watch on BBC Two now.
