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Chicago Tribune
Chicago Tribune
Lifestyle
Althea Legaspi

Rich Labriola to open pizza place; Ravenswood bakery adds savory prix fixe

Aug. 04--Pizza pioneers: Pizza Barra, opening by early September in Oak Brook in the former Grotto space (3011 Butterfield Road, 630-861-6177) is adding another kind of pizza to Chicagoland's wide-ranging pie landscape: ciabatta-style.

"It's not exactly the same, but it has characteristics of a crisp, super airy, really light ciabatta loaf of bread," says executive chef Chris Macchia (former executive chef/partner at Coco Pazzo and former chef at The Florentine), who partnered with Rich Labriola (Labriola Ristorante Cafe, Stan's Donuts Coffee) on the restaurant.

According to Macchia, the dough developed by Labriola gives more structure to the bottom of the pie compared with the soft bottom that a Neapolitan-style pizza has. Pizza Barra's artisan pizzas are also cooked for a longer time at a much lower temperature than is typical for Neapolitan, allowing water to evaporate slowly to produce a golden-brown bottom.

Artisan pizzas will range from $20 to $25 for a 16-inch pizza, depending on toppings. Pizza Barra will also offer classic Chicago deep-dish and thin-crust pies.

Macchia plans for seasonal toppings, such as zucchini flowers or figs in the summer. For a spin on Margherita pizza, he's using Carr Valley Cheese Co. cheese from Wisconsin and has sourced organic tomatoes from California. "We're going to have to commit to (ordering them) once a year," he says. "So, it's a really, really special tomato."

Besides pizza, the 8,500-square foot restaurant with an outdoor patio will serve homemade pastas, small plates, wines, specialty cocktails and craft beers, with 14 on tap. A second Pizza Barra is also in the works; Macchia and Labriola are eyeing a space at Randolph Street and Michigan Avenue, Macchia said, adding that they hope to open in about a year.

Pizza Barra will be open for lunch and dinner Monday to Thursday 11 a.m. to midnight; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.; and Sunday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Eats Sweets adds $30 prix fixe: Eats Sweets Cafe in Ravenswood (1636 W. Montrose Ave., 773-293-7013) has new owners and a new focus. "We've been hitting the 'Eats' part more," Margaret McCall said of the savory versus sweet emphasis she and her husband/chef Tim Benedict (former executive chef of Old Town Pour House in Oak Brook) have added since they took over the establishment in June.

One big change: The restaurant has added a weekend "Night Out" special. The $30 prix fixe, 5-8 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays, includes salad, entrees and dessert for two. "We're not known as a dinner place, (and) we would love to draw some of that traffic," McCall said.

There are still plenty of housemade sweets and bakery items, including cookies, cupcakes, bars and bagels made fresh daily, plus house-baked vegan cupcakes ($1.25) and gluten-free options from bakery Cookie Bar. "We're also offering seitan as a meat substitute," McCall added. "Specifically we're serving Upton's Naturals, which is a local company." Eats Sweets Cafe is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Monday to Friday, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.; and Saturday and Sunday, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Althea Legaspi is a freelance writer.

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