Cycling wasn't in the plan when I went to Khon Kaen recently on one of my "update trips" to see how places have changed. But late that morning, after having spent an hour or so strolling under the scorching sun, I came across something refreshingly delightful: a bicycle rental shop. A godsend!
The rigs on offer were nothing fancy, just old comfort bikes for people to rent for a leisurely evening ride in a nearby park. I picked one that suited my size and seemed to be in good working condition. It was cheap: 100 baht, if I remember it rightly, for 24 hours.
"Now you can go anywhere," I said to myself.
From the shop, I walked my bike across the street to Bung Kaen Nakhon, the city's most famous lake, which also serves as a recreational area for the townspeople. The lake has a cycling lane running around it. However, after riding just a short section I decided to leave. The sun was still too strong. I knew there was an easier, less tormenting way to get a picture of the area.
I rode to Wat Nong Waeng, just a stone's throw away. The temple is known for its 80m-tall pagoda Phra Maha That Kaen Nakhon. The towering structure, built to mark the 50th anniversary of King Bhumibol Adulyadej's accession to the throne in 1996, is made up of nine storeys, and from the top, I could enjoy a good view of the lake to the east and the surrounding area.
When I got back down to ground level, an old lady suggested that I visit Wat That on the northwestern side of the lake. "There, you'll find a centuries-old pagoda that is most respected by the locals," she said. I followed her advice.
As well as the pagoda, the temple also houses the revered Phra Lap, a Lao-style Buddha statue said to date back to 1525. After paying my respects to the image, I biked around the city, checking out streets and markets, including the city's Walking Street which, in my opinion, has a higher concentration of good looking vendors than any other walking street I've been to.
The following morning, I biked to Bung Thung Sang, another lake, about 3km north of Bung Kaen Nakhon. Here, there are also cycling and jogging lanes, brightly painted in yellow and red to clearly delineate them. I wish I'd had enough time to finish the loop around the lake, but after taking a few photos I had to continue to Khon Kaen National Museum, and then the Natural History Museum in the compound of Khon Kaen University.
It was almost noon by the time I left the Natural History Museum. I had to rush back to the bicycle rental shop to return the bike, but not without dropping by the city's new elevated train station -- expected to be completed soon -- and the beautiful wooden houses of railway personnel.
I felt thankful and a sense of accomplishment at having been able to go back and update myself on so many parts of Khon Kaen in such a short trip. Although they are not furry or cute, bicycles are always my best friend.
See you here again soon. Until then, if you have questions, news or biking insights you wish to share, please feel free to send an email to pongpetm@bangkokpost.co.th or go to Freewheel Bangkok community page on Facebook.
Pongpet Mekloy is Bangkok Post travel editor and a mountain bike freak.
KHON KAEN CITY
- GPS co-ordinates (the bicycle rental shop near Bung Kaen Nakhon): 16°25'05.17" N 102°50'06.71" E
- Trail condition: City streets.
- Distance: Depends on your route.
- Getting there: Khon Kaen can be reached by road, rail and plane. The last takes about an hour. From Khon Kaen airport, there are buses that can take you to different spots in the city.
- Food & drink: A lot of shops, restaurants, hip cafés and street food are available in the city.
- What your family can enjoy: There are big shopping malls, including a CentralPlaza.
- Accommodation: The city offers good choices to meet any kind of budget.
